OCTOBER 2025
OVERVIEW
We are continuing our ‘optimal loop’ through S E Asia.
Mid August through Mid October is a difficult time for sun lovers to travel through S E Asia … it is Rainy Season almost everywhere.
We have just spent 7 weeks touring Bali Island … But, we have left Bali earlier than planned so that we can have a quick look at Laos.
The Rainy Season in Laos starts to clear in October. We land in Laos in late September.
The plan is to start in Luang Prabang, have a look around the area and, then, to head south to Vientiane as the rains clear.
<<< Let’s look at what this Northern Tour has to offer >>>
ABOUT LAOS
Laos is a mountainous and landlocked country and it is still one of the most peaceful and least explored nations in S E Asia. However, this is changing fast, with tourism being the biggest growth sector.
The Kingdom of Laos was first created as an entity in 1353 as a Khmer vassal state. After a succession dispute, the kingdom split into three in 1694 and was eventually devoured piece by piece by the Siamese (Thailand), the last fragments agreeing to Siamese protection in 1885.
The area east of the Mekong, however, was soon wrenched back from Siam by the French who set up Laos as a unified territory in 1907.
Laos was granted full independence in 1953. In 1975, after the fall of Vietnam, the Communists took control.
Laos is officially Buddhist with a good deal of animism mixed in.
ELECTRIC
Be prepared for power outages in Laos. Thankfully, they don’t seem to last too long (perhaps up to 1 hour).
EXCHANGE RATE
The currency in Laos is the Kip (the ‘LAK’). At the time of writing, the exchange rates for the major currencies were:
| US$1 | EU€1 | GB£1 | |
| Published Wholesale Rate | 21,663 | 25,318 | 29,070 |
| Actual Exchange Rate (Wise Debit Card) | 21,496 | 25,123 | 28,846 |
| Actual Exchange Rate (Typical Credit Card) | 21,013 | 24,559 | 28,198 |
| Actual Exchange Rate (Good ATM) | 20,682 | 24,171 | 27,753 |
Over time, these exchange rates will change. Please check the current rates.
For simplicity, think of a 100,000 / 100k note as being US$4.50 / EU€4.00 / GB£3.50.
Travelers may be surprised to find that prices here are significantly higher than in neighbouring countries. There is no way that the locals earn enough to pay the same prices as the western tourists do. The Government must be controlling the exchange rate … Foreigners are getting 2x to 3x less than what they should be getting in a ‘normal’ country with a market-driven exchange rate.
ATMs
Laos ATMs are limited to a 2m (US$100) maximum amount per withdrawal.
PLEASE NOTE: Much of the ATM fee information on the internet is out of date … fees have risen.
Different banks charge different withdrawal fees. Most charge 3%. I found that the best ATMs to use were BCEL and Phongsavan (PSV). Each charge a withdrawal fee of 40k (US$2) on a maximum 2m withdrawal, this is 2%. However, BCEL charged me 30k for a 1m withdrawal (3%). Your home bank will make its own charges on top of that.
WARNING: On my first day, I met 2 people who had their ATM Cards swallowed by an ATM: one at the airport and one in Luang Prabang town center.
RECOMMENDATION: Only use ATMs located in a bank then, if it is ‘eaten’, you have immediate help to get it back. Take out the maximum each time to minimise fees.
WISE DEBIT CARD
I keep my costs down by using a Wise Debit Card.
Wise allow me to withdraw up to US$250 per calendar month from ATMs without any fees. Thereafter, I use whichever Debit Card provides the lowest ATM withdrawal rate (which is, usually, still my Wise card at 1.75%).
GETTING THERE
Laos offers land borders with many countries. All of which offer long distance busses.
Laos also offers some International Airports including ones in Luang Prabang, Vientiane, and Pakse.
eVISA
Laos now offer an eVisa option.
RECOMMENDATION: Get an eVisa in advance to avoid the long-winded Visa On Arrival (VOA) process.
Go to the official government website.
The application process is straight-forward. You will be charged about US$52 per person inclusive of fees for a 30 day eVisa.
You will need to upload a passport compliant photo and a copy of your passport bio page as well as standard personal, passport, and arrival information.
NOTE: You will be required to provide the name and address of your hotel booking. You are not required to provide proof of a return / onward ticket.
For safety, they advise you to apply for your eVisa at least 5 days before your arrival. They will email the eVisa to you. You do not need to print off a hard copy … a soft copy on your mobile phone will be sufficient at Immigration.
CUSTOMS DECLARATION
You are also required to fill in a Customs Declaration. You cannot do this online.
PLEASE NOTE: You will need to fill in a CD form before going through Immigration. Don’t forget, or you will be sent to the back of the queue.
LUANG PRABANG AIRPORT
Over 50% of the people arriving on my flight did not have an eVisa. They had to:
- Fill in the (above) detailed form; and
- Have a physical passport photo; then
- Queue to process and pay for their VOA (which must be in US$s); before
- Queuing at Immigration.
Allow up to 1 hour to complete this process.
If you have an eVisa (and your completed CD), you can go directly to the eVisa Immigration queue and get through in about 20 minutes.
Luang Prabang Airport is small and easy to negotiate.
UNITEL SIMCARD
You will find SIM Card kiosks in Arrivals (after Immigration) … they are notorious for over-charging … 2x or 3x what you should pay.
The Airport offer free wifi in blocks of 30 minutes.
SUGGESTION: Use the free wifi to get yourself to your hotel (I used LOCA, see below). Then buy your SIM Card and package in town.
I walked to the Unitel Official Store in Luang Prabang and bought a SIM for 60k and a 1 month 15GB Data Plan for 50k. They did not require my passport.
I had already pre-downloaded the Unitel Mobile App, so I was up and running immediately. A few days later, the App instructed me to upgrade to the LaoApp which has wider features.
TOP UPS
The Unitel Mobile App allows top-ups but I didn’t need to try. I don’t know if you can top up using your foreign credit card.
TRANSPORT
FLIGHTS
Luang Prabang, Vientiane, and Pakse have International Airports that are serviced by Budget Airlines (such as Air Asia).
TRAINS
A train line connects China going south to Vientiane with stops at Nateuy, Muang Xai, Muang Nga, Luang Prabang, Kasi, Vang Tang, Vang Vieng, and Vientiane.
Otherwise, you will need to catch a bus / shuttle.
BUS / SHUTTLE
This is the main way of getting to places that are not serviced by the train line.
There are frequent services between all of the main tourist spots.
Given the state of the roads, these tend to be small 15-19 seater busses.
TUK TUK
Prices are negotiable. They are not regulated. Tourists get over-charged. I still haven’t fully figured out how much we should pay per km in Laos … it seems to be 10k / km (for tourists).
I suggest that you start by using 10k / km / person as your ‘rule-of-thumb’.
LOCA
LOCA is the local version of ‘GRAB’. However, it does not operate everywhere.
LUANG PRABANG
ABOUT
Set at the confluence of two rivers that almost surround the city, and beneath a temple-topped hill, Luang Prabang is a wonderful patchwork of traditional Lao wooden houses and hints of European architecture (reminders of when Laos was a French colony).
Golden-roofed wats, decorated with mosaics and murals of the life of Buddha, sit under the gaze of wrap-around teak balconies and 19th century shuttered windows. All of this is set against a backdrop of greenery and rugged mountains.
Luang Prabang is surprisingly clean and tidy for a S E Asia town (with UNESCO closely involved).
The pressures of mass tourism development have been held at bay, but for how much longer remains to be seen.
ACTIVITIES
WATS
You can spend the whole day just walking between all of the beautiful Wats in town. Here is a preview:
OTHER
- Alms ceremony: monks at dawn (05:30) collecting alms of rice along Sakkaline Road near Wat Sensoukharam.
- Haw Kham: the former royal palace and now national museum. Visiting the gardens is free. The museum has a small entry fee.
- Phou Si / Chomsy Hill: the main hill in the city from which you have a panoramic view of the whole area. The northern entrance has about 130 steps up to the ticket counter, and another 190 steps to the top. The eastern entrance is longer than the northern one by a factor of 2 or 3, and is hence less steep and has more points of interest along the way, which are perfect excuses for stopping for a breather on the climb. There is a small Entry fee.
- Sunset on the waterfront: If having dinner, make sure to bring some mosquito repellent or wear long trousers. Mosquitoes love stationary targets.
- Vipassana temple and park
- Pha Tad Ke Botanical Garden
Where there is an Entry Fee, expect it to be 20k-30k.
AROUND
There are many agents selling package tours to these (following) location … or, you can rent a scooter and do it yourself.
KUANG SI WATERFALLS
A large multi-stage waterfall about 29 km south of Luang Prabang. Scooter Parking is 5k. Entry is 60k (which includes a Shuttle to / from the Parking Area and the Park Entrance).
Walk about 600m to the end of the road. You can go up the 542 steps to The View (entry 30k). From the Falls, you can follow the waterside path back to the Entrance.
Definitely worth the trip.
Tat Kuang Si Bear Rescue Centre (inside Kuang Si Waterfall park).
Kuang Si Butterfly Park (300m before Kuang Si Waterfalls): There is a small Entry fee.
PAK OU CAVE
Located about 20kms north of Luang Prabang on the Mekong and can be reached by road (about 1 hour) or river boat (about 1.5 hours). A return small boat across the river is 25k. Entry 30k.
The road trip was nice but the caves are not worth it (IMHO).
Nam Ou Elephant Farm, Ban Pak Ou (Close to Pak Ou Caves, on the bank of the Nam Ou River): Feed and ride elephants.
OTHER
- Elephant Village Sanctuary & Resort, Ban Xieng Lom (opposite the Royal Palace Museum): Basic elephant rides.
- Tat Sae Waterfalls: Stepped waterfalls which are not as big as Kuang Si, but very beautiful. You can bathe here, and elephant rides are also available. You must take a river boat (each way) to reach the place. There is a small Parking fee. There is a small Entry fee.
- Elephant Village (Ban Xieng Lom).
ACCOMMODATION
Luang Prabang seems to have a reasonable number of GRANDPAcking Standard accommodation options.
But, beware, read about Where To Stay below (because many are not in good locations).
PLEASE NOTE: AGODA offer better prices than BOOKING in Laos (even for the same hotels) but BOOKING provides better filter options.
MY ACCOMMODATION
I used Agoda to book 7 nights in a Double Room at the Suan Keo Boutique Villa.
I paid a discounted price of 190k / US$9 per night which included (a choice of 7) Breakfasts.
Due to a power outage at my booked hotel, I was transferred (free of charge) to a Twin Room in the Suan Keo’s sister property (Suan Keo 2) about 20m further down the road.
My accommodation was conveniently located and the wifi was good enough to stream videos.
On the bad side, I got electric shocks off of the TV … so, I didn’t use it.
WHERE TO STAY
Let’s have a walk around the Old Town center:
And compare this with the surrounding areas:
I recommend that you target the central Green Shaded Area close to the Old Town center because the surrounding areas don’t have the same ‘ambience’.
The Yellow Shaded Area is the ‘prettiest’ part of town and it is worth a look if you don’t mind walking or if you rent your own transport.
The Orange Shaded Area may be OK but it won’t feel the same … you will not feel like you are in Luang Prabang and a UNESCO heritage site.
EAT & DRINK
Restaurants along the main street tend to be expensive and aimed at luxury tourists, whilst lower cost venues are found along the banks of the Mekong.
EAT
Typical ‘local eatery’ prices in town center are 60k for a simple meal.
NIGHT MARKET
The night market is centrally located and popular. It opens every night at 5pm.
A simple Pork Noodle Soup costs 60k. A Large Beer Lao 35k.
RIVERFRONT
Local Restaurants along the Riverfront have a much nicer outlook over the Mekong and offer meals at similar prices.
I tried one of the cheapest places (with no name).
If you get out of town center and eat where the locals eat, you can get a Noodle Soup for 35k (one of my favourites where you get unlimited bean sprouts and/or salad leaves to mix into your soup).
DRINK
There are a number of places to drink around Luang Prabang, though the late-night club scene is pretty much nonexistent. The liveliest and busiest bars are in a small cluster between Mount Phousi and the Nam Khong.
Luang Prabang curfews are strictly enforced here: bars start winding down at 23:00 and close at 23:30 sharp.
Typical ‘drink prices are about 35k … these prices can halve outside of the ‘tourist areas’:
The typical price for a Large Beer Lao is 35k. Some ‘tourist’ restaurants charge more.
You can buy the same in a ‘corner store’ for 22k (avoid the tourist-targeting minimarts).
LOCAL TRANSPORT
LOCA
LOCA operate here and offer good, safe prices. For example, they quoted 83k for a car from my hotel back to the Airport.
SCOOTER RENTAL
Scooter rental is expensive in Laos. Most will ask for 150k (US$7.50) to 180k (US$8.50) per day. So, shop around.
The cheapest price that I found was Allu Motors Motorbike Rental opposite the BCEL ATM on Kitsalat Road where you can rent a Scooter for as low as 120k.
I decided to rent from my hotel at 150k per day. You need to complete a rental agreement (mine valued my Scooter at US$3,000 … in the event of theft or damage, this is what I would be liable for). They also kept my passport for security.
The Scooter will arrive empty so the first thing you need to do is fill it up. There are no rebates for petrol … so, only fill it up with what you need. There are many Petrol Stations in Luang Prabang town.
As a rule of thumb, a typical Scooter should go about 40kms per litre. I filled up my tank from empty for 90k. I drove 120kms and still had half a tank left on the clock.
BICYCLE RENTAL
Bicycle Rental is also expensive for S E Asia. The asking price is 50k (US$2.50) per day.
GENERAL COSTS
- Laundry: 20k per kilo normal. 30k-40k per kilo in a tourist area / your hotel
- 1.5L Bottled Water = 10k
CONCLUSION
The rain in Luang Prabang tended to fall mid to late afternoon and/or at night. In my first 5 days, it rained every other day. It rained the full last 2 days with a 4 hour break in the middle of the 2nd day.
Luang Prabang is a pleasant place that many would enjoy.
NONG KHIAW
PREFACE
The day before leaving Luang Prabang I slipped on wet tiles. I dislocated a left toe, took the skin off 3 toes and my right knee, and cracked the middle of my back as I landed on a concrete step.
Consequently, I arrived in Nong Khiaw in a very damaged state 🙂
I was pretty much bed-ridden for the 4 days that I was in Nong Khiaw … but, this is what I was able to find out about the place …
GETTING THERE
In Laos, time between locations is not determined by distance … it is determined by the state of the road and the weather.
Most people get here on a Shuttle. I booked mine at my hotel for 180k. Pick up was 8:30am. I was actually picked up at 8:15am in a tuk tuk and taken to a small shop about 3kms away from my hotel. There, I waited 2 hours until 10:20am for my Shuttle to arrive. We stopped 3 times along the way for ‘comfort stops’ (one guy on the Shuttle was drinking lots of beer). We finally arrived in Nong Khiaw Bus Station at 3:15pm.
As typical for Laos, the Bus Station is located on the edge of town. All of the youngsters with backpacks chose to walk the short distance to their hotels. I had a large suitcase and a group of locals had big bags of grocery shopping. There should be a Tuk Tuk waiting for your Shuttle. The locals paid 20k each to get to Nong Khiaw Pier. I paid 30k to go 100m further over the bridge to Pont Inn.
ABOUT
Nong Khiaw is simple in layout and small enough to walk around.
It is a popular destination for backpackers seeking caves, treks, boat trips, cycling, mountain biking, and mountain-climbing. Simply put, you come here to do activities.
There are tour agents everywhere offering a smorgasbord of options.
Typical options include:
As an example, the 1 Day Muang Ngoy trip costs:
- US$30 if joining a group with other people.
- US$120 for a private charter.
ACTIVITIES
- Scenic Views: Walk or bicycle on the dirt road behind the Riverside Resort.
AROUND
- 100 Waterfalls Trek: Rated one of the best hikes in Laos.
- Khmu and Hmong Villages: Rent a Mountain Bike and push eastwards.
- Phadeng Peak: Take the steep trail up to the viewpoint for a wonderful 360° view. There is a small Entry Fee. It takes 1-1.5 hours to reach the top. Great for sunset (if not raining). Bring a torchlight for your descent.
- Pha Tok Caves: (about 2km from Ban Sop Houn). The caves are accessed via steep concrete steps. The Entry Fee is collected at the bottom where you can also borrow a torch. The trail to the cave passes through many rice paddies and a small section of jungle. If you ask the people at the “ticket desk”, you should be able to arrange a boat ride back to Nong Khiaw from a local. For 2 people in a 2-person longtail boat, the price is around 50k. To see the second cave by yourself take the little pass at your left when you are at the entry of the first one.
- Pha Kuang Cave: (3 km East on the 1C). This cave requires a little more fitness than your usual caving adventure, it is definitely something else. The cave runs about 300m into the rock and some climbing through small holes is required but it is definitely worth the adventure and the cave is quite stunning once you get inside. 10k Entry Fee.
MUANG GNOY
Muang Ngoy is a small, traditional village, about a one-hour boat ride upstream on the Nam Ou River. It is already becoming a popular tourist destination.
You can do a day trip to Muang Ngoy but many enjoy staying for a night or two. Muang Ngoy has some reasonably priced accommodation options.
In Muang Ngoy, you can enjoy similar activities as in Nong Khiaw. There are a few interesting viewpoints, gorgeous limestone cliffs, cute local villages, caves, hikes (e.g. to Tad Mook waterfall), and Nam Ou beach to ‘chill’ on.
LOCAL TRANSPORT
LOCA do not operate here. You will be using a tuk tuk / baht bus. Expect to pay 20k for a short-distance ride.
SCOOTER RENTAL
Scooter Rental is available. There are many shops to choose from. You will need to leave your passport and agree to a very punitive rental agreement. Daily rates are said to be 150k.
My hotel rented an eScooter for 50k for 3 hours and 150k for 12 hours (max range 80kms). They also rented a double kayak (hours unspecified) for 100k.
From Nong Khiaw, the tarmac road going west takes you up the valley and through increasingly populous towns with the road taking you past some beautiful rice paddies. The eastern tarmac road route winds through the hills, passing two of the caves (see above), through small villages and to a small waterfall that you can paddle / swim in. Beware, the ‘tarmac’ roads are riddled with potholes.
BICYCLE RENTAL
Bicycle / Mountain Bike Rental is also available.
ACCOMMODATION
A large concrete road bridge connects Nong Khiaw with Ban Sop Houn village (where many of the river-view bungalows are found).
There were only a few accommodation options within our price range.
You will find the cheaper options over the bridge in Ban Sop Houn.
MY ACCOMMODATION
I used Agoda to book a Chalet With Balcony at the Pont Inn. I paid a highly discounted rate of 161k / US$8 per night (down 75% from 643k per night) excluding breakfast.
Given my poor state, this was probably the worst place that I could have chosen.
I have been traveling full time for 10 years. This bed is the 2nd worst in all of that time. Firstly, the mattress was a padded blanket less than 1/2 inch thick set on a solid base. Secondly, it was on the floor. Getting in and out of it with a torn muscle in my back was almost impossible. Getting any sleep was even worse. By the morning, I couldn’t find one bit of my body to lie on that didn’t already ache.
Even in ‘peak’ condition, I would have found the bed very uncomfortable.
Otherwise, the Chalet was perfectly adequate (albeit small). Nice balcony with a view out over the river. Very good wifi. Hot water shower. Clean.
WHERE TO STAY
You can stay anywhere either side of the bridge.
EAT & DRINK
I was surprised to find that prices were ‘mid range’. There are very few ‘budget’ options. Even a standard Noodle Soup (that you can get for 35k in Luang Prabang) is 50k here.
Expect to pay 50k-65k for one of the cheapest meals on the menu.
Expect to pay 30k-50k for fruit drinks / smoothies.
Expect to pay 30k-35k for a large Beer Lao.
INTERNET / WIFI
I had a strong 4G signal everywhere with my Unitel SIM.
The internet at my accommodation was good enough to stream video.
GETTING AWAY
Nong Khiaw is pretty well connected. With buses running regularly to nearby tourist destinations.
The cities of Luang Prabang and Muang Xai (Oudom Xay) are only about 3-4 hours away by shuttle.
Typical prices booking through your hotel are:
Luang Prabang: 8:30am/ 10:30am / 11:00am 160k including hotel pickup.
Vang Vieng: 7:30am / 3:30pm 450k including hotel pickup.
Muang Xai (Oudom Xay): 9:30am 220k (vs 150k at the Bus Station) but this included hotel pickup (worth 30k).
CONCLUSION
You come to Nong Khiaw for active, nature-based activities.
Otherwise, there is very little to do.
MUANG XAI (OUDOM XAY)
GETTING THERE
A Shuttle from Nong Khiaw to Muang Xai booked through a hotel costs 220k. You can pay 180k if you do it myself (30k for a tuk tuk to the Bus Station and 150k for the Shuttle ticket).
As typical for Laos, the Muang Xai New Bus Station is outside of town center … in this case, about 5kms away!
I walked out of the Bus Station and approached a tuk tuk who wanted 100k to take me the 5.5 kms to my hotel. I declined. Another passing tuk tuk offered 50k. I accepted.
ABOUT
There are very few things to see in Muang Xai. The things worth seeing are Chom Ong Cave (45kms away) and Nam Kat Waterfall (23 kms away). It rained the 2 days that I was there, so I was unable to see any of them.
LOCAL TRANSPORT
LOCA do not operate here. Tuk Tuks are the main form of transport.
There are no scooter nor bicycle rental places shown on Google Maps.
MY ACCOMMODATION
There was only 1 option available within GRANDPAcker price range.
I used Agoda to book 3 nights in a Superior Double at the Mittaphap Hotel. I got a 33% discounted rate of 466k / US$22 per night including breakfast.
My room was good and everything worked.
EAT & DRINK
We are ‘off the tourist trail’ … prices get more reasonable.
You can get a decent meal in a local eatery for 40k-60k.
A large Beer Lao was 25k.
INTERNET / WIFI
I had a strong 4G signal everywhere with my Unitel SIM.
The internet at my accommodation was good enough to stream video.
CONCLUSION
There is little to attract tourists to Muang Xai.
VANG VIENG
GETTING THERE
On my arrival in Muang Xai, I got online to the official Laos Train Booking Site to book a fast train to Vang Vieng 3 days later.
All seat classes on the 14:04 fast train were already sold out. I had to book a 2nd class ‘hard seat’ on the 15:13 slow train. The price was 465k / US$21 (after fees).
You can set your watch my the trains. They run almost perfectly on time.
ABOUT
Vang Vieng is so small that everything is easily reachable by foot.
It is not a ‘pretty’ town (whereas Luang Prabang is).
ACTIVITIES
All the lagoons / waterfalls / caves / etc have an entrance fee of 20k. Scooter parking is usually free.
You also have a smorgasbord of activities in the US$18 to US$45 range.
AROUND
The town and surroundings are the real attractions, including the rows of limestone karst mountains across the river to provide a stunning backdrop and is the setting for some impressive caves.
We take a Scooter Trip to:
- Tham Chang;
- Blue Lagoon 1 / Tham Pouk Ham Cave;
- Blue Lagoon 5.
It would be easy to while away half a day in either Tham Chang and/or Lagoon 1 … bring your swimming trunks!
Next, we take a Scooter Trip to:
- Ban Pha Tang;
- Lagoon 4 / Loup Cave / Tham Nam Water Cave.
Ban Pha Tang wasn’t worth the trip. Lagoon 4 was OK (uncrowded) but not as nice as Tham Chang nor Lagoon 1.
There are many other sights / caves / viewpoints that you can discover for yourself.
LOCAL TRANSPORT
LOCA
LOCA operate in Vang Vieng.
As an example, a LOCA car from the Train Station to Town Center is 85k (a shared Baht Bus is 40k).
TUK TUK (BAHT BUS)
A Tuk Tuk (Baht Bus) will cost 10k per person to get to anywhere within Vang Vieng town.
It is said that you can rent a tuk-tuk for the day for 150k; but, I was not able to verify this.
SCOOTER RENTAL
There are many motorcycle rentals all over town. The tank arrives empty. Budget 1 litre of petrol for each 40kms you expect to travel. I found that 30k of petrol was enough for each 1-day scooter trip.
Always check the condition of the bike and details of the contract before signing anything.
The roads are poor, so Scooter Rental is not recommended for inexperienced drivers; accidents are frequent for locals as well as for tourists.
Because of the likelihood of an accident, the contracts are punitive and you are responsible if something breaks or fails to function, even if it’s normal wear and tear.
Standard rates are 150k for 24 hours or 100k for a half day (e.g. 10am to 5pm). I found the latter to be perfectly sufficient.
BICYCLE RENTAL
Bicycle Rental is 30k per day or more for a newer bicycle.
ACCOMMODATION
There were many options available within GRANDPAcker price range (at this time of year).
MY ACCOMMODATION
I used Agoda to book a Standard Double Room at the Sout Jai Guesthouse. I got a big discount of 75%.
There was no balcony but downstairs in the ‘scooter parking area’ there are tables where you can sit and chill.
WHERE TO STAY
You can stay anywhere between Wat That (to the north) and Sysoumangkhararam Temple (to the south). Everything is within walking distance.
EAT & DRINK
Vang Vieng is a Tourist Town and you will pay accordingly.
EAT
A typical meal in a ‘touristy’ restaurant will cost between 80k and 120k but you can still find local warungs where you can get the same for 50k.
DRINK
A large Beer Lao will typically cost 30k-40k. You get the same for 25k in a minimart.
INTERNET / WIFI
I had a strong 4G signal everywhere with my Unitel SIM.
The internet at my accommodation was good enough to stream video.
CONCLUSION
Don’t be put off by the bad reviews that say that tourism has ruined Vang Vieng. Vang Vieng is definitely worth a visit.
Spending half a day in one of the Lagoons is a beautiful experience … and, you have many sights to see and a choice of many fun experiences / activities to do.
VIENTIANE
GETTING THERE
Given my problems booking a train from Muang Xai to Vang Vieng, I booked my ticket from Vang Vieng to Vientiane 7 days in advance.
This time, I was able to book a 2nd class seat on the 13:57 fast train. The price was 355k / US$17 (after fees).
A LOCA Car to Vang Vieng Train Station was 77k.
Vientiane Train Station is about 12kms out from town centre. I jumped on a #157 public bus to the central bus station for 25k. From there, it was 55k for a LOCA Car to my hotel.
ABOUT
Vientiane is the capital and largest city of Laos. It is situated on the banks of the Mekong River at the Thai border. Vientiane had a population of 840,000 as of the 2023 Census.
Vientiane was first established as the capital of the Kingdom of Lan Xang in 1563. Then, Vientiane served as the French administrative center during French rule and it retains colonial-era architecture alongside Buddhist its landmarks.
The Laos–China Railway (a component of China’s Belt and Road Initiative) ends in Vientiane. There are plans to connect on to the Thailand’s rail network via the Mekong Railway Bridge.
ACTIVITIES
Vientiane, primarily, attracts tourists for its heritage, temples (Wats), and Buddhist monuments.
LOCAL TRANSPORT
LOCA
LOCA operate here.
TUK TUK
Budget 10k / per person / per km.
SCOOTER RENTAL
The standard price is 150k / day (24 hours).
BICYCLE RENTAL
The standard price is 50k / day (24 hours).
ACCOMMODATION
There were only a few hotels available within GRANDPAcker price range in the Old Town Area (at this time of year). On investigation, most were not very good. I had to increase the budget … but, in capital cities, this is expected.
I suggest that you stay in (or close to) this area.
MY ACCOMMODATION
I used Agoda to book a Superior Double Room at the Vientiane Garden Villa Hotel. I paid a discounted price of 525k / US$25 per night including breakfast.
My room was a good size and everything worked. I had access to a balcony, but there was no outside furniture. Strangely, the top half of the main door was frosted glass without a curtain … so, light from the hallway fell into the room. The Buffet Breakfast was simple but sufficient. The location was good with easy access to shops, restaurants, bars, and the night market.
EAT & DRINK
Prices are 20-30% higher than elsewhere in Laos.
Expect a meal to cost 100k and a large Beer Lao 60k.
INTERNET / WIFI
I had a strong 4G signal everywhere with my Unitel SIM.
The internet at my accommodation was good enough to stream video.
CONCLUSION
It rained for 2 of the 3 days that I was there.
Regardless, a couple of days in Vientiane is enough.
GETTING AWAY
I booked an Air Asia flight from Vientiane to Phuket via Bangkok.
The price was US$215 including 30kg of checked-in luggage.
I caught a LOCA Car to the airport for 100k.
GRANDPAcking COSTS
Read About – GRANDPAcking Costs if you don’t know how to interpret my figures.
Costs are broken down into Cost Of Existence (COE) and Cost Of Living (COL):
- COE: Is the basic costs of just being there;
- COL: Is the additional costs that make being there fun.
MY GRANDPAcking COSTS
These were my actual costs:
To view the above spreadsheet in more detail, {right click} on it and choose an option.
AVERAGE EXCHANGE RATE / (BLUE) TOP SECTION
I lost an average of 4.53% taking cash out of ATMs because I took out the maximum of 2m from BCEL and Phongsavan ATMs.
I lost an average of 3.00% on my Visa Credit Card.
I lost an average of 0.77% Wise Debit Card which I used to pay for my accommodation where possible.
COST OF EXISTENCE (COE) / (ORANGE) MIDDLE SECTION
ACCOMMODATION
I averaged 346k / US$17 per night for hotels including breakfast.
I averaged 197k / US$10 per night for hotels excluding breakfast.
FOOD & BEVERAGES
I averaged 92k / US$4.50 per day. Please note that I eat to live, I do not live to eat … my costs are always significantly lower than other people.
SIM CARD / MOBILE DATA
I bought a Unitel SIM Card with a 15GB 1 month data only plan at an official store for 110k.
VISA EXTENSION / NATIONAL PARK FEES
A 1 month eVisa cost 1.117m / US$52.
TRAVEL INSURANCE
My Backpacker Level Travel Insurance policy has been pro rata’d.
NECESSARY TRANSPORT
I spent just over 1.5m on getting between my Luang Prabang / Nong Khiaw / Muang Xai / Vang Vieng / Vientiane hotels.
COST OF LIVING (COL) / (BROWN) BOTTOM SECTION
LIVING COSTS
I averaged under 52k / US$2.50 per day on my evening beers.
I spend 384k / US$19 renting a scooter in Luang Prabang and sightseeing for 1 day.
I spent another 300k / US$15 for 2 half day scooter rentals in Vang Vieng.
IN / OUT COSTS
I spent 2.7m / US$126 flying in from Bali, Indonesia.
It cost me 100k / US$4 for a LOCA Car to/from the airport on my arrival and exit.
OTHER COSTS
I spent a further 1.1m / US$54 on other items.
GRANDPAcking SUMMARY
My COE was 578k / US$27 per day (40% of my daily budget).
My COL was 270k / US$13 per day (19% of my daily budget).
My Grand Total cost was 850k / US$40 per day (58% of my daily budget).
I had ‘Money to Burn’ … I still had over 600k / US$29 left over each day … I could have done heaps more and still stayed within budget.
YOUR GRANDPAcking COSTS
This would be your budget:
To view the above spreadsheet in more detail, {right click} on it and choose an option.
ORANGE COLUMNS / LEFT HAND SIDE
The left of the spreadsheet (orange columns) shows the costs for a GRANDPAcking Couple living to GRANDPAcking Standard using a Standard (Home) Bank Credit / Debit Card where possible and withdrawing cash from ATMs where cash is required.
These costs are for a 30 day stay in Shoulder Season (avoiding peak times such as Easter, Xmas and New Year).
COST OF EXISTENCE (COE)
ACCOMMODATION
Expect to pay 350k / US$17 per night including breakfast or 230k / US$11 per night excluding breakfast.
FOOD & BEVERAGES
Expect to pay just over 370k / US$18 per day eating cheaply in local restaurants.
SIM CARD / MOBILE DATA
Expect to pay 110k / US$5 for a Unitel SIM Card an 1 month data only package.
VISA
Two eVisas are about 2.25m / US$106.
TRAVEL INSURANCE
A typical Backpacker Level Travel Insurance policy has been pro rata’d.
NECESSARY TRANSPORT & SIGHTSEEING
A train from Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng and another from there to Vientiane costs 1.7m / US$81.
1 day scooter rental each week 180k / US$9 including petrol for each 1 day rental.
SUMMARY
Your COE is about 950k / US$45 per day. This is 69% of your daily budget.
This means that you have about 430k / US$21 left to spend each day.
You will find that ‘Money is Getting Tight‘.
RIGHT HAND SIDE / PURPLE COLUMNS
The right of the spreadsheet (purple columns) shows the costs for a GRANDPAcking Couple living to GRANDPAcking Standard using a Wise Debit Card where possible and withdrawing cash from ATMs where cash is required.
Given that:
- You will be visiting several places; and thus
- You will have to pay high short-term Scooter Rental rates.
The Wise Debit Card makes no significant difference.
COST OF EXISTENCE (COE)
ACCOMMODATION
No change.
FOOD & BEVERAGES
No change.
SIM CARD / MOBILE DATA
No change.
VISA
No change.
TRAVEL INSURANCE
No change.
NECESSARY TRANSPORT & SIGHTSEEING
No change.
SUMMARY
No change.
GRANDPAcking SUMMARY
The lower Shoulder Season hotel prices make Laos affordable but the rains make travel to remote locations problematic … it may be best for GRANDPAckers to stick to movement between the main cities on the new Railway Line between Vientiane and China.
You will find Laos Mid Priced compared to other GRANDPAcking destinations.
CONCLUSION
Could you afford to retire here on a GRANDPAcking budget? MAYBE. Would you want to? MAYBE.
Most people come to Laos to experience the unspoilt scenery and culture.
Beware: If you come in Peak Season, you will probably be paying non-discounted Hotel rates. At those prices, Laos will become unaffordable for GRANDPAckers.
Beware: In Rainy Season (when you can get big discounts on hotels) you could lose 30%-50% of your days to rain or water-logged roads … this will seriously curtail your ability to experience what you came for.
GRANDPAckers will need to come in Shoulder Season if they want to keep withing budget whilst getting a reasonable experience. This means that GRANDPAckers need to come either;
- Mid October through Mid November; or
- Mid March through Mid April; and
- Put up with a few rainy days.
If you have never been to Laos, it is definitely worth a visit but, but I am not sure that 30 days in only Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng is enough choice.
Also, generally, I found the locals to be ‘disinterested’ in tourists (unless they were spending money) … IMHO, there are ‘friendlier’ places to go.
The reality is that, there are better and more affordable places for GRANDPAckers to go with bigger ‘Shoulder Seasons’.
Personally, I will not be returning to Laos in the near future.
TTFN
