GENERIC:
OVERVIEW
People say that, when you come to India, you either love it or you hate it.
In this post I give you some important tips, tricks, and traps that (hopefully) will help you love it … rather than hate it.
As I learn more, I will update this post with new information … if you plan on coming to India, why not tag this page so that you can get the latest information before you arrive.
MONEY
The currency in India is the Rupee (the ‘INR’ or ‘rs’). At the time of writing, the exchange rates for the major currencies were:
| US$1 | EU€1 | GB£1 | |
| Published Wholesale Rate | 84.38 | 89.37 | 107.39 |
| Actual Exchange Rate (Wise Debit Card) | 83.53 | 88.48 | 106.32 |
| Actual Exchange Rate (Typical Credit Card) | 82.48 | 87.36 | 104.98 |
| Actual Exchange Rate (Good ATM) | 82.89 | 87.80 | 105.51 |
| Actual Exchange Rate (Bad ATM) | 76.50 | 82.80 | 99.35 |
You will NOT get this Wholesale Rate … you will get one of the Actual Exchange Rates. Expect to lose about 2.25% if you use a typical Credit Card.
WISE DEBIT CARD
I keep my costs down by using a Wise Debit Card.
RECOMMENDATION: I highly recommend the Wise Debit Card to all travelers.
Expect to lose about 1.00% if you use a Wise Debit Card.
I use Wise to pay for my travel and accommodation whenever possible.
ATMs
Be careful which ATM you use. Some are significantly better than others. Some bank ATMs can charge you as much as 8-9% on a single withdrawal.
Another thing to watch for are ATMs that give you a choice just before giving you your cash:
- ‘Proceed with the bank’s fixed / secured exchange rate’; or
- ‘Continue without conversion’.
RECOMMENDATION: ALWAYS choose to CONTINUE WITHOUT CONVERSION. This forces the Indian Bank and your Home Bank to use the Wholesale Interest Rate.
Even then, different Indian Banks charge different ‘usage fees’. Between the Indian Bank and your Home Bank this can amount to as much as 5%.
RECOMMENDATION: I use the SBI Bank ATMs WITHOUT CONVERSION and I lose about 1.75%. You may also want to look at Baroda. Avoid AXIS which I found to be one of the most expensive.
The maximum withdrawal from an Indian ATM is 10,000rs per transaction (which is only about US$120). But, you should be able to take out multiple transactions in the same day … how many is, usually, determined by your Home Banks’ daily withdrawal limit.
CASHLESS
Digital payments have grown exponentially in India over the past decade, with the country now boasting one of the most advanced FinTech ecosystems in the world.
India is now dominated by many digital payment methods … even many of the street stalls display a QR code that you can scan to make your purchase.
Some payment methods are for Indians only. The ones of most interest / use to foreigners are credit / debit cards, prepaid cards, and e-wallets.
PLEASE NOTE: (we found that) about 50% of stores did not accept foreign credit / debit cards … so ask first.
The most popular eWallets in India are Paytm, MobiKwik, and Freecharge. Paytm is particularly prevalent but it only works in India / for Indian Nationals.
QR Code payments are supported by a number of major payment platforms, including Paytm, Google Pay, Paypal, Amazon Pay, and PhonePe.
I STRONGLY SUGGEST: that you do your own research and bring a digital payment method that works in India if you can. Paypal is, basically, ‘old hat’ nowadays (it’s fees are too high). Google Pay may be the most obvious? Amazon Pay if you are from the USA?
FOREIGN CREDIT CARDS
Many online sites and stores do not accept foreign credit cards. Which ones do and which ones do not is ‘pot luck’. Sometimes this can prove to be very inconvenient.
If you don’t sort out a ‘cashless’ solution in advance, expect to be using ATMs and paying for most things in cash.
CHANGE
ATMs in India generally spit out 500rs notes. In a 10,000rs withdrawal, you may only get 5x 100rs notes … the rest will be 500rs notes. Sometimes, you only get 500s.
A INR500 / 500rs note is only worth about US$6 / EU€6 / GB£5 but you will constantly have trouble trying to change one. This is especially true for tuk tuks, street vendors, small shops, and budget restaurants.
SUGGESTION: Always try to change large notes for small ones wherever and whenever you can … you don’t want to run out of small ones.
eVISA
Before arrival, you will need to apply for and secure your tourist eVisa.
I paid (including convenience fees) US$41 for a 1 year multi-entry Tourist eVisa and, as a UK Passport holder, it allowed me to stay in India for a maximum of 180 days in a 1 year period.
To apply for your eVisa, make sure that you (avoid the SCAMS and) use the official government website: click here.
LOCAL SIM CARD
There are 2 main providers worth considering when you are touring India: Airtel and Jio. I chose Airtel (see below).
AIRTEL
INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTS
At Delhi International, if you are desperately in need of communications on arrival, you will find a dispensing machine just before the baggage claim area. Here you can enter your passport details and get a chit for ‘free wifi’ for 1 hour. You may find similar in other larger International Indian Airports.
AIRTEL KIOSK
Service providers have a kiosk in most major airports.
In Delhi Airport you find an Airtel Kiosk in the foyer outside of arrivals. Next to the kiosk is a ‘good’ ATM where you can extract your first Indian Rupees at a reasonable rate.
Airtel were offering a new SIM Card with a 28 day package for 500rs. They ONLY sell this one plan at the Airport.
The package included unlimited local calls, 100 messages and 1.5Gb per day. As a promotion, you also got a top up of another 500Mb of 5G data per day.
The sign-up process in India is laborious. A detailed form needs to be filled in and you need to provide passport sized photos. The kiosk will do all of this work for you in the 500rs fee.
CAUTION: Be sure to confirm the 500rs price when you first approach the counter. I was pulled aside by a pretty young girl wearing an Airtel uniform (whilst I was still in the queue) … after completing the (30 minute long) registration process, she SCAMMED me and told me that the 500rs was only for the SIM card … and that I needed to pay another 349rs for the 28 day package! So, this was an official Airtel staff member at the official Airtel kiosk SCAMMING tourists for an extra 349rs each! Welcome to India!
THE AIRTEL APP
Download the Airtel mobile app which is useful for keeping track of what is going on with your package. You can do this before you land in India and have it up and running by the time you leave the airport kiosk.
HOWEVER, the app does not accept Foreign Credit Cards nor Foreign Internet Bank transfers. Thus, you cannot use the app to recharge your account nor buy more packages.
You will, also, not be able to put money into your Airtel Wallet (so that you can use it later to buy what you want when you want). You will only be able to buy the exact package that you want there and then.
PLEASE NOTE that each package has a unique price so, as soon as you load that said amount of money, the system assumes that you are buying that particular package. That package is what you get.
RECHARGES
Normal Airtel Stores do not handle recharges, you will have to go to an ‘Airtel Payment Store’ which are fewer and farther between.
If there isn’t one near you, you should be able to find a local shop that will do your recharge for you (usually without commission). However, unlike other countries (where you can go to, say, any 7/11), it is not obvious which shop to use. Ask at an Airtel Store.
Your hotel may be able to do this for you (usually with commission).
You are likely to buy a 28 day plan on arrival. This means that you may be a couple of days short on your 1 month eVisa and you may want to extend your plan. It is unlikely that a shop will sell you a 1 week extension (for 77rs) … you are probably going to have to buy a cheap 1 month plan for 299rs.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
UBER
UBER operate in most cities and large towns in India. OLA are UBER’s main competitor.
Both have apps that you can download to your smartphone. Personally, I find UBER to be better than OLA.
UBER operate from Delhi International Airport.
With my new ATM cash in hand and my new Airtel SIM card from the Delhi International Arrivals Hall, I booked an UBER Cab from Delhi Airport to my hotel. My hotel was about 17km / 45 minutes away. The UBER price at midnight was 500rs / US$6.25.
At some stage you will have to deal with Tuk Tuks and Taxis. We got tired of them quoting ridiculous prices that were 2x to as much as 5x more than the standard rate. Some have meters … if they do, ask them to switch the meter on to get the right price. HOWEVER, typically, you will find that the meter is ‘not working’.
So, I started using UBER. UBER offer a selection of transport options from Motos (you jump on the back of a motorbike), to Tuk Tuks, to various quality cabs.
We found UBER very useful because:
- UBER are usually cheaper than what you can negotiate with a driver on the street;
- If UBER had transport immediately available we could book it there and then;
- The price is fixed (most of the time … before the odd ‘rogue’ driver tries to ‘guilt trip’ you over something or other).
UBER worked well where it operated. UBER does not operate in smaller towns. In some places you can have trouble booking an UBER and/or you have to wait a long time for it to arrive.
If we had trouble booking UBER or had a long wait, we at least knew the price that we should pay and, therefore, we knew what to negotiate with drivers off the street.
Often, we could get a driver to match the UBER price. Sometimes, it would cost about 20% more than the UBER price. Use this as your ‘rule of thumb’.
Given that UBER were a fixed and cheap price, I felt more than happy to always tip them.
TUK TUKS
Tuk Tuks play ‘spot the white man’. They will quote high prices. To get a good price you need to know what the locals pay … to know what it should cost.
As aforesaid, the UBER app will give you a good idea of what a fair / ‘Indian local’ price is. As a ‘foreigner’ add 0%-20% if you hail a Tuk Tuk on the street (and act like you KNOW what the price is).
In many states, the Tuk Tuks must display their ‘authorised rate’. This is usually painted on the passenger side of the driver seat.
You can easily work it out. Letters like ‘M.C’ mean ‘Minimum Charge’ (e.g.30rs). Letters like ‘R.K.M’ mean ‘Rate per Km’ (e.g. 15rs). Letters like ‘W.C’ mean ‘Waiting Charge’ (e.g. 10rs per 15mins).
PLEASE NOTE: The Minimum Charge is NOT usually a multiple of the per Km charge (for instance, above, it is NOT 2x 15rs = 2kms). It is usually a combination of a ‘Flag Fall’ charge plus an included maximum distance. For safety, Foreigners should expect it to be up to 1Km.
On rare occasions, the Tuk Tuk will have an official certificate on display.
PLEASE NOTE: A tuk tuk can lose their license if they charge differently.
TUK TUK RULE-OF-THUMB
If everything else fails … to work out what you should pay for a Tuk Tuk flagged down on the street, calculate:
- FLAG FALL:
- In large cities / popular tourist areas: 35rs;
- In rural areas: 20rs;
- PER KILOMETER: Add 15rs per part km thereafter;
- CAPTURED MARKET: Add 15rs if you have few other options;
- TRAFFIC: Add 15rs if driving through a busy area;
- MINIMUM CHARGE:
- In large cities / popular tourist areas: 50rs;
- In rural areas: 35rs;
- OUT OF HOURS: Add 25% to the Total Charge if between 11pm and 6am.
- TOTAL: Prices are for the whole tuk tuk (NOT per person).
Obviously, if you have ordered a Tuk Tuk to collect you from (say) your hotel, you should pay them 15rs per Km for how far you think they had to drive to get to you (e.g. assume that they came from town centre).
EXAMPLE: You and your partner have arrived at a railway station in Alleppey (a popular tourist area) during daylight hours. Your hotel is 2.4 kms away. You should offer a tuk tuk: 35rs (Flag Fall) plus 15rs (1st km) plus 15rs (2nd km) plus 15rs (part 3rd km). A total of 80rs.
METERED TUK TUKs
Some towns require Tuk Tuks to use a meter. Unfortunately this isn’t as common as (perhaps) it should be.
Mangaluru is one such example. In Mangaluru the tarriff was:
- 35rs flag fall which included up to 1.2km;
- 1rs per part 0.1km thereafter.
I suggest that you ‘keep your driver honest’ by tracking the driver’s route using Google Maps … let the driver see that this is what you are doing.
LOCAL BUSSES
India has an excellent and very cheap bus network.
These busses can get very full and, if you catch one at a bus stop, you are likely to find ‘standing room only’. This can be a big problem if you are travelling with your luggage.
Local busses expect you to carry your luggage on the bus with you. They do not put luggage into a ‘luggage compartment’.
If you want to catch a bus (and you have luggage with you), I strongly suggest that you only do so if you start your journey at a Bus Stand / Bus Terminal. This should allow you to find a seat and a suitable place to put your luggage.
Small luggage items can be put in the overhead luggage racks.
If your journey finishes at a Bus Stand, you can try sitting at the front of the bus where there is good space for luggage. Do not sit here if you are getting off en route … you may find it a big problem trying to push past people to get off.
Another good place to try and get is the back seat immediately above the back steps.
AVOID SCHOOL TIMES
I strongly suggest that you avoid travelling when children are going to or returning home from school. Busses are almost guaranteed to be packed at these times.
TRAINS
If you are travelling around India, the chances are that you will be catching a train at some stage on your journey. Seat61.com do an excellent write up of train travel in India.
Avoid using agents like 12Go if you can. You lose some cancellation flexibility and they can charge you over 30% in service fees on top of the actual price of the ticket.
Indian Railway Catering and Tourism Corporation (IRCTC)
I STRONGLY SUGGEST that you go directly to the official India Railways site: IRCTC.COM.IN.
You will need to register in advance because there is a registration process that requires your payment method to be verified. However, once verified, you are free to login and use the website to book your trains.
The website is ‘clunky’ and takes a bit of ‘getting used to’.
I ALSO SUGGEST that you download the IRCTC Mobile App.
On IRCTC you have the ability to check your train’s status. From the main menu select TRAINS then TRACK YOUR TRAIN. On the next screen enter your train number and search.
This will display where your train starts and all of the stations that it stops at on the way to its destination. On the day of travel, it will tell you whether or not it is on time as well as the latest expected arrival time at your embarkation station.
You can ask for the ‘Average Delay’ to see how well your train usually performs to schedule.
You can also ask IRCTC to show you where the train is in real-time on a map.
CAUTION: The IRCTC app is very optimistic about a train that is running behind schedule. For example, a train may be shown to be running 1 hour late at a station 5 stations before yours and 4 hours away … but it may still show that it will arrive at your station on time! As each station passes, IRCTC get more and more realistic and the true time of arrival at your station begins to evolve. If it is running late 5 stations before you, there is every chance that it will be just as late (or later) by the time that it gets to you … it may never make up lost time.
TRAINMAN
Another useful site is Trainman.in. No sign-up or login is required.
Simply enter your Train Number and search. You will be displayed a layout of the train with all coaches listed in order.
From here, you can select your coach number (which is shown on your IRCTC Booking Confirmation). You will be shown the seating within that coach so that you can see where your seats are.
ON THE PLATFORM
Your Train Station will display your train platform on a TV screen in the foyer.
CAUTION: If your train is running late check your platform regularly … it is not unusual for the train to be re-assigned to another platform.
Most platforms have small LED displays spaced every 20 metres along the platform. As your train nears the station, these will alternatively display the Train Number and the Coach Number that stops next to that display. Using TRAINMAN and these displays, you should be able to correctly position yourself on the platform before the train arrives (and before everyone else goes crazy trying to get to their coach before the train leaves).
TRAIN NUMBER
CAUTION: Trains can have more than one number. One number may be used for the first part of the train’s journey and another for the next. This can be confusing and it can be easy for you to miss your train if you do not pay attention. Sometimes the LED Displays on the platform show the wrong number for this part of the journey (i.e. it will be different from the number on your train ticket) and it is easy for you to miss your train.
As a train pulls into the platform, do a couple of double checks:
- Note the order of the coaches … does this match what TRAINMAN says about your train?
- Read what is on the side of each carriage … some carriages display the Name of The Train and the Train Number(s) … does this match what is on your ticket?
SCOOTER RENTAL
A scooter in India is called a ‘Scooty’. So sweet :-). They are, usually, 115cc or 125cc.
Most rental companies are not very fussy about your documentation but all of them will want to take a photo of your passport and your driving license. Most do not even require you to provide proof that you have an International Driver’s License. Some just ask ‘can you drive’?
The standard rental price in India is from 400rs to 500rs per day depending on where you are and how new the Scooty is. This is true even in a town like Agra (which houses the Taj Mahal). In some places, you can rent a decent Scooty (e.g. a Honda Activa 6G) for as low as 250rs-350rs (see Royal Brothers, below).
Some renters will try and charge foreigners as much as 800rs – 1,000rs per day (LMAO)! Others will ‘negotiate down’ to 600rs per day to make you feel that you got a good deal. If they quote more than 500rs, stick to your guns and get them down to the right price.
If you go through a 3rd party (such as your hotel receptionist) expect them to put a 10% commission on top for themselves. Go direct to the shop if you can.
If you want the Scooty to be delivered to and picked up from your hotel, add 50rs to 100rs to your total price … consider how far away the shop is from your hotel … and what the ‘local’ price for a ‘Moto’ is. This is not a per day price … it is a per rental price.
You will almost certainly get your Scooty delivered empty. Your first act will be to find a petrol station. Budget 2.5rs of petrol / gas per km. 100rs = 40km and this will (normally) be sufficient for the average person. The rental company bank on the fact that you will over-fill it (and they syphon out the extra petrol for themselves when you return it).
ROYAL BROTHERS
If you plan to rent a scooter often, consider signing up with Royal Brothers. They operate in many towns across India.
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Royal Brothers are very professional and they can be very ‘officious’ but they offer excellent rates.
Honda Activa 6G | Honda Dio (BS6) | Suzuki Avenis 125
Mon-Thu(Min 10 hrs booking) Booking Time (0- 24 hrs) ₹ 21/hr Booking Time (>24 hrs) ₹ 21/hr Fri-Sun(Min 24hrs booking) Booking Time (>24hrs) ₹ 21/hr ExtrasKm limit 5.0/hr Excess km charges ₹ 4.0/km |
Yamaha Fascino (BS6) Mon-Thu(Min 24 hrs booking) Booking Time (0- 24 hrs) ₹ 22/hr Booking Time (>24 hrs) ₹ 22/hr Fri-Sun(Min 24hrs booking) Booking Time (>24hrs) ₹ 22/hr ExtrasKm limit 5.0/hr Excess km charges ₹ 6.0/km | Hero Pleasure Plus Mon-Thu(Min 10 hrs booking) Booking Time (0- 24 hrs) ₹ 17/hr Booking Time (>24 hrs) ₹ 17/hr Fri-Sun(Min 24hrs booking) Booking Time (>24hrs) ₹ 17/hr ExtrasKm limit 4.0/hr Excess km charges ₹ 4.0/km | Hero Maestro Mon-Thu(Min 10 hrs booking) Booking Time (0- 24 hrs) ₹ 21/hr Booking Time (>24 hrs) ₹ 21/hr Fri-Sun(Min 24hrs booking) Booking Time (>24hrs) ₹ 21/hr ExtrasKm limit 5.0/hr Excess km charges ₹ 4.0/km |
As an example, in Mangalore I rented a Honda Dio from 9am to 6pm for a total (including tax) of 269rs with a 50km limit.
HINT 1: Renting on a Friday, Saturday, and/or Sunday costs more than double that for Monday through Thursday.
Example: to rent a Honda 6G from 9am to 6pm on a Monday costs 243rs including tax. It costs 584rs on a weekend day.
HINT 2: If you pick up and drop off on the same day you get the best rate. It costs more to keep the scooter overnight (when you are more than likely not even using it).
Example: to rent a Honda 6G from 9am Monday through 6pm Tuesday costs 803rs. To rent 9am to 6pm on Monday and the same on Tuesday costs 2x243rs = 486rs.
ROAD RULES
PLEASE NOTE: The roads are chaotic … western ‘road rules’ don’t apply. Indians don’t even know how to go around a roundabout. They believe that ‘beeping your horn’ solves everything … even a traffic jam. You will see people driving the wrong way down the street (always give them the ‘inside line’). People don’t queue … they just ‘cut in’ … this is ‘dog eats dog’. There is no right or wrong … just make your intentions clear … here, ‘doubt and indecision causes accidents’. India operates on the ‘law of the biggest’ … if they are bigger than you, you give way (whether they are right or wrong does not matter). You need to be aware of what other drivers are going to do … generally they don’t look and they only think about themselves … so, it is up to you to anticipate their next move and drive accordingly.
I STRONGLY SUGGEST: If you are not a assertive / confident driver, do not rent a scooter.
ACCOMMODATION SCAMS
Most people (especially GRANDPAckers) will book their hotel in advance using a popular booking engine such as Hotels, Agoda or Booking.com.
Watch out for the following SCAMS …
BOOKING PRICE NOT HONOURED
In India, it is quite common (especially in the ‘budget hotel’ price range) for you to arrive at your hotel to be told that your booking will not be honoured because you have not paid enough.
This problem is most prevalent with ‘pay on arrival bookings’ but it can also be true if you have paid in advance.
It does not matter if you’ve paid in advance or not.
It does not matter if you have a voucher stating that the booking is ‘Confirmed and Paid’.
If you do not pay the increased price, you will not get your room. They will invent all sorts of excuses … they will even blatantly lying to your face that the hotel is full (even though they have already booked you in at reception).
You will end up standing at reception with no room (even if you arrive in the middle of the night) in breach of their cancellation policy (because you have not given 24 hours notice of cancellation).
If you call your booking engine for support you may be lucky enough to get them in real time so that they can talk to the hotel staff … the hotel will just lie to them too.
If you are really lucky, your booking engine may be able to get you your refund.
I STRONGLY SUGGEST that you read all low scoring reviews for a hotel before you book. The people who have been done by this SCAM are the ones giving the hotel bad reviews.
No Booking Received / No Payment Received
I got done a beauty when I first landed in India.
I found a hotel called Sai Palace in Praha Ganj, Delhi. Whilst checking their reviews, I found (on Google Maps) that the hotel had its own website where I could book directly at a cheaper price than using a booking engine.
Their website was hosted by a company called Zuzu Hospitality Solutions … a company that specialise in servicing direct booking sites for hotels. PLEASE NOTE: I have had more than 1 problem with hotels serviced by Zuzu … you may want to keep this in mind when you make your own bookings.
Anyway. I booked and paid for 2 rooms for a total of 7 nights two months before our arrival. I paid a total of 9,060rs (average 1,294rs per night per room). We checked-in at 2am on our first night. The room rate included breakfast … at check-in, we were told that there was no breakfast (this happens a lot in India). The rooms were run down and did not look like the pictures online.
On our second day, the hotel manager pulled me aside and told me that he could not find my booking nor my payment.
I told him that I booked using their own website. I showed him proof of the booking and proof of payment.
He told me that the email address and the telephone number of the Booking Confirmation were false. He claimed that I had paid a scam company. He then proceeded to tell me that the Sai Palace Hotel no longer existed and that I was staying in Bunk Hostel Delhi. This was despite the fact that the name above the door of the hotel said Sai Palace Hotel! I went online but the Sai Palace Hotel website had now gone.
The night before check-out I was forced to pay 2,300rs per night … a total of 16,100rs for the 2 rooms. They justified this by showing me the price that they were asking for the same rooms on Hostelworld under the name of Bunk Hostel Delhi.
I smelt a rat and did some checking …I found Sai Palace Hotel still advertising my exact same rooms on Agoda … my rooms were listed at a pre-discounted price of 1,114rs per night and for 695rs after discount! I could have booked my rooms there and then on Agoda for a total of 4,865rs for the 7 nights.
BUT, I ended up paying a total of 16,100rs in cash on top of the 9,060rs that I had already paid on my Credit Card. This was a total of 25,160rs (3,594rs per night)!
SAI PALACE were running a SCAM … a clever SCAM, but still a SCAM.
I STRONGLY SUGGEST that you do not book using a hotel’s own website. Book using a well-known booking engine like Agoda … at least then, if things go wrong, you have 3rd party support to help you keep the hotel ‘honest’.
I did not have such support, so I ended up having to pay nearly 3x the original price for our rooms … and, I now had to try and reclaim 9,060rs from Zuzu by raising a ‘dispute’ with my credit card company.
Indian Nationals Only
Another problem you may come across is ‘Indian Nationals Only’ hotels. These are usually OYO hotels, so watch out for ‘OYO’ or ‘… O …’ in the hotel name or in the hotel pictures.
I STRONGLY SUGGEST that, unless you are prepared to do a lot of double checking on the hotel, I would avoid all OYOs completely.
Strangely, these hotels also seem to be the cheaper / best value hotels … perhaps because they don’t have to pay the Indian Government for a ‘Foreigners License’.
Anyway … booking engines such as Hotels, Agoda and Booking.com do not always force these OYOs to make it clear that they are Indian Nationals Only hotels. Sometimes there is no mention of the fact on the booking site. Other times, there may be a small statement under an obscure heading that (the hotel knows) most readers will not notice. In my mind, this makes the booking engine complicit in the SCAM.
What the OYOs do is:
- Accept your booking even though it is obvious that you are a foreigner; then
- Ignore all advance communications from you so that you turn up on the day of your booking; then
- Refuse to give you a room; then
- Refuse to refund you your money citing their cancellation policy (which usually requires you to cancel at least 24 hours in advance).
If you contact your booking engine they will say that there is nothing that they can do because of the hotel’s the cancellation policy.
YOU HAVE BEEN SCREWED.
IN CONCLUSION
Booking problems in India are so prevalent that I STRONGLY SUGGEST that:
- You always book with a Credit Card using a reputable booking agent;
- You avoid ‘Pay at The Hotel’ options (unless you have done a lot of research and double checking first).
In my first month covering 11 hotels, I had problems with 5 of them. I changed my booking strategy / approach and eliminated most of these problems thereafter.
When you book using a Credit Card and the booking goes wrong, you can raise a ‘dispute’ through your Credit Card company and (usually) get your money back.
On the India Only Hotels that refuse a refund, I have also raised ‘disputes’ against the booking engine company … who I believe to be complicit in the SCAM.
It is common for people to turn up at their pre-booked hotel (especially if arriving late) to find that their room has been rented out to someone else.
SUGGESTION: contact the hotel (message / email / phone call) the day before your planned arrival to re-confirm your booking and to provide an estimated arrival time.
FINDING GOOD HOTEL PRICES
Don’t just rely on the normal hotel search engines that you are used to in the west (e.g. Agoda, Booking, Hotels, etc). These are western search engines targeting western customers at western prices.
GOIBIBO
I strongly suggest that you sign up to GOIBIBO and download their mobile app.
To sign up, you must have an Indian Mobile number. Thus, you cannot sign up until you get to India and get yourself a local (Airtel) SIM.
You will find that GOIBIBO Has hotels that are not listed on the western search engines.
You will also find that prices on GOIBIBO tend to be lower than those found on western search engines.
GOOGLE MAPS
Your western search engine is smart. It watches what you are doing and learns your habits. It adjusts your pricing accordingly … usually to your financial disadvantage.
For instance, I noted that Agoda was significantly limiting the number of hoitels that I was allowed to see.
I strongly suggest that you get used to using google maps ‘hotels’ function.
Enter your dates and price limit then visibly search the map to see what hotels are available.
Don’t believe that initial prices shown. Often, when you click on a hotel’s price tag, the price will change (this is especially true if you are booking at the last minute).
Google Maps will list all of the hotel search engines that you can use to make a booking and the prices at each of those sites. Often you will get a better price going through Google Maps than you would going to a hotel search site directly.
EAT
Food is cheap. You can get a decent meal in a ‘local restaurant’ for as little as 50rs-80rs / US$0.65c-US$1.00.
It is more typical to pay up to 200rs / US$2.50.
Even if you ‘splash out’, you will be hard-pushed to pay over 400rs / US$5 in a ‘typical’ restaurant.
2 weeks into our holiday, my son fell ill with Gastroenteritis caught from eating food from a street stall. He was in hospital for 2 nights and he was on pills for another 7.
It recurred 1 week later and he ended up in hospital again for another 2 nights. In India they like to keep people with Gastroenteritis in for 2 nights so that they can monitor you for a minimum of 24 hours. They usually put foreigners into a ‘private room’ if they have one.
My son had Travel Insurance. If you don’t, you will still find prices very cheap by ‘western standards’ … but the hospital rooms are very basic. You will need someone to look after you as the hospitals do not provide everything needed. You will need help to go to the pharmacy to buy the drugs that you need, to get your meals, and to get your personal things and toiletries.
On entry, you will probably have to pay a 500rs-1,000rs ‘emergency fee’. You will also be asked to pay a 6,000rs-10,000rs deposit up front. Over 2 days drips and drugs will add up to about 4,000-5,000rs. You will, probably, need at least one blood test at 1,700rs-2,700rs. Doctor fees, nursing fees, and room fees for 2 days & nights will add up to over $10,000rs.
Simply put, it will cost you about 20,000rs / US$250 if you are hospitalised because you caught Gastroenteritis.
It cost us US$100s more in Hotel and Train cancellation fees as (under advisement from our NZ Consulate) we had to abandon the rest of our trip and return to the ‘relative safety’ of New Delhi.
I STRONGLY SUGGEST that you stay away from street food stalls and / or providers that do not have clean, running water.
DRINK
Alcohol is relatively expensive in India … especially when compared to the price of food.
A 500ml can of (strong 7%-8%) beer in a liquor store will cost 130rs – 180rs … that is more than the price of a meal (such as a Vegetarian Thali).
Liquor is sold in Government stores. Search Google Maps for ‘Beer Shop’, ‘Foreign Liquor Shop’, or ‘English Wine Shop’. Alas, most of the results displayed on Google Maps are wrong or false … but some are still there. You are best to ask a local.
They are hard to find and far in-between so, if you like a beer, you may have a problem.
You get ‘pubs’ or ‘bars’ in India but, for us westerners, they are more like night clubs. These places can be very LOUD. A 500ml local beer will cost anywhere between 380rs to 500rs.
WHERE TO STAY – MAJOR CITIES
Most people are likely to start their India experience in one of the main cities.
This is my advice for Delhi but it may also be true for other major cities like Chennai and Mumbai.
DELHI
You may be tempted to get a hotel in Praha Ganj near to a Metro Station. This is a busy backpacker area but, using the Metro, it is convenient to get to / from anywhere in Delhi.
You may be pleasantly surprised by other areas of Delhi … I liked the look of the area around the Noida Sec-18 Metro Station. The area is modern, the streets are relatively clean, there are shopping malls, buskers play in the shopping streets in the evening, and there are many restaurants to choose from.
In other words, don’t be put off by a non-central location … as long as you are near a Metro Station you should be OK.
DELHI METRO
At any Delhi Metro Station counter, you can buy a 3 day Tourist Metro Pass for 500rs. This gives you unlimited travel on Public Transport (Metro and street Bus). This excludes the Airport Express line.
A ticket from Delhi Railway Station to the Airport costs about 40rs one way.
Most short trips on the Metro cost about 20rs one way.
There is a 50rs deposit on the card that you can cash up when you leave Delhi by handing your card back at a service counter.
You have to do a lot of travel every day to use up 500rs. On our return to Delhi, we decided to just top up the card. We found that 100rs per day was enough to cover our daily sightseeing needs … therefore, we found that the same 500rs lasted 5 days.
ACCOMMODATION
A decent ‘budget’ hotel that meets ‘GRANDPAcking Standard‘ will cost US$10 – US$20 per night in India.
Go lower than US$15 per night and expect to ‘get what you paid for’ … something will be wrong … perhaps you have no hot water, perhaps there is nowhere to hang your clothes (you should bring a travel-washing-line anyway for such eventualities), perhaps the promised breakfast is NOT INCLUDED, perhaps …
In many hotels, you do not get a hot water shower but you do get a hot water tap. This is common in India. What you are expected to do is to fill up a (provided) big bucket with hot water and use a (provided) cup to pour hot water over yourself. So, you are standing under a cold water shower throwing hot water over yourself. This is the Indian version of a hot shower. I call it an ‘Indian Shower‘.
RECOMMENDATION: Check the climate of where you plan to stay before your arrival. If night temperatures average below 26c, you may not need aircon … a fan over the bed may prove sufficient.
GENERAL INFORMATION
OPENING HOURS
The day doesn’t start until 10am … everything … including restaurants. In India, you have Brunch, not Breakfast.
Most tourist sights like museums, forts, etc close at 5pm.
POWER
All power sockets in India provide a standard voltage of 230V with a standard frequency of 50Hz. This is the most common outlet:
Occasionally, you may get a universal outlet that accepts any plug from any country … but, this is rare so bring a Travel Plug.
I always travel with a Universal Power strip that also has USB charging ports … this gives me everything that I need for all of my devices.
Couple this power strip with a Travel Plug, and you have everything that you need.
Power in India is very reliable but you do get the odd outage for a few minutes.
YOUR GRANDPAcking COSTS
After touring India for 6 months, the same budget kept bubbling to the top time and time again.
Regardless of where you are in India, expect this to be your budget:
ORANGE COLUMNS / LEFT HAND SIDE
The left of the spreadsheet (orange columns) shows the costs for a GRANDPAcking Couple living to GRANDPAcking Standard using a Standard (Home) Bank Credit / Debit Card where possible and withdrawing cash from ATMs where cash is required.
These costs are for a 28 Day stay in Shoulder Season (avoiding Xmas and New Year).
COST OF EXISTENCE (COE)
ACCOMMODATION
Expect to pay an average of 1,250rs / US$15 per night.
In some locations this may require you to book your first few nights in something at 1,500-1,750rs per night so that you can find somewhere nice for under 1,250rs per night for the rest of your stay.
Do not expect to get Breakfast included … this is rare at this price and, if you do get it included, it is likely to be unsatisfactory. Don’t worry … you can easily get a nice breakfast for under 100rs each anyway.
Expect to pay by Credit Card 50% of the time and with cash 50% of the time.
FOOD & BEVERAGES
Expect to spend an average of about 1,000rs / US$12 per day.
This is to eat 3 meals per day (Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner) in a ‘local’ cafe / restaurant.
SIM CARD / MOBILE DATA
A 28 day Airtel 500rs new SIM Card & Package bought at the airport on arrival.
VISA
Two US$26 one month Tourist eVisas.
TRAVEL INSURANCE
A typical 1 Month Backpacker Level Travel Insurance policy for 2 people.
NECESSARY TRANSPORT & SIGHTSEEING
A transport budget shouldn’t be necessary.
SUMMARY
Your COE is about 2,650rs / US$31 per day. This is 48% of your daily budget.
This means that you have 2,800rs / US$34 left to spend each day.
You will have ‘Money to Burn‘. Enjoy!
RIGHT HAND SIDE / PURPLE COLUMNS
The right of the spreadsheet (purple columns) shows the costs for a GRANDPAcking Couple living to GRANDPAcking Standard using a Wise Debit Card where possible and withdrawing cash from ATMs where cash is required.
Due to the low use of Foreign Credit Cards in India, the Wise Debit Card makes no significant difference.
GRANDPAcking SUMMARY
A GRANDPAcking couple should have ‘Money to Burn‘ when on holiday in India.
CONCLUSION:
Don’t get angry ... travel smart … travel informed … enjoy India for what it is … not for what you want it to be.
TTFN
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