DECEMBER 2024 / JANUARY 2025
OVERVIEW
We have just finished our 1 month tour of Rajasthan.
If you haven’t done so already, please read my India Tips, Tricks, and Traps post first. This will help you better understand what you are going to read in this post.
<<< our next stop is Christmas / New Year in Candolim, Goa, India >>>
EXCHANGE RATE
The currency in India is the Rupee (the ‘INR’ or ‘rs’). At the time of writing, the exchange rates for the major currencies were:
| US$1 | EU€1 | GB£1 | |
| Published Wholesale Rate | 84.33 | 89.56 | 107.65 |
| Actual Exchange Rate (Wise Debit Card) | 83.48 | 88.67 | 106.57 |
| Actual Exchange Rate (Typical Credit Card) | 82.43 | 87.55 | 105.23 |
| Actual Exchange Rate (Good ATM) | 82.85 | 88.00 | 105.76 |
| Actual Exchange Rate (Bad ATM) | 76.74 | 81.50 | 97.96 |
Over time, these exchange rates will change. Please check the current rates.
For simplicity, think of a 500rs note as being US$6 / EU€6 / GB£5.
ATMs
Be careful which ATM you use.
I use SBI Bank ATMs WITHOUT CONVERSION.
WISE DEBIT CARD
I keep my costs down by using a Wise Debit Card.
ABOUT
The Portuguese first voyaged to India in the early 16th century as merchants and conquered the area of Goa soon thereafter. Goa became an overseas territory of the Portuguese Empire and remained so for about 456 years until it was annexed back by India in 1961.
Goa has been a famous tourist destination for many years … and, it shows. Goa has the highest GDP per capita among all Indian states and is two and a half times that of India as a whole. As a consequence costs are higher here than in other parts of India
Candolim is located in North Goa immediately south of Calangute.
As of 2011, Candolim had a population of 8,500.
WHEN TO GO
Goa has a tropical monsoonal climate with a dry season (November through April) and a heavy monsoon May through August. It has no cold season.
We are in Goa mid December to mid January … ‘Peak Season’.
At this time of year prices go up significantly … some prices can double or triple.
TRANSPORT
There is no public transport. You don’t see many tuk tuks. UBER does not operate in this part of Goa.
GOAMILES
GoaMiles have the market cornered. I suggest that you download the GoaMiles Mobile App.
Compared to UBER prices elsewhere in India, GoaMiles are expensive … 3x to 4x the price for a short trip … and, most of your trips are going to be short trips.
A short 1-2km trip in say, Lucknow, in an UBER Hatchback would cost about 75rs to 90rs. An equivalent GoaMiles trip in Goa costs over 300rs.
GoaMiles wanted to charge us 315rs to go 1km to the supermarket during the day. They also wanted to charge 335rs to go 5km to Baga Beach. GoaMiles seems to want a minimum of 300rs for any local trip. If you use GoaMiles for 2 or more return trips per day this will quickly eat into your budget.
SCOOTER RENTAL
Scooter Rentals are everywhere. The standard rate is 400rs / US$5 per day. However, between Xmas and New Year this rate increases to a minimum of 1,000rs / US$12.50 per day.
I wanted to rent a scooter for 1 month from 15th December to 15th January. Because this spanned Xmas week, many rental places refused to give a monthly rate … they see Xmas week as a ‘cash cow’.
After spending 1-2 days asking around, I finally negotiated a 32 day rental of 9,000rs / US$110 for an almost new Yamaha Fascino. This worked out to be under 300rs / US$3.50 per day.
It cost 450rs / US$5.50 to fill it up with petrol / gas. I mainly used it for short 1-3 km trips around town.
I didn’t really need a scooter … on most days I didn’t use it … it was a luxury item … I spoilt myself for Xmas.
THE BEACH
The beach starts at Sinquerim Beach in the south and continues uninterrupted for 8km going north to Baga Beach. Some parts are busier than others.
Along the beach you will find ‘shacks’. Each shack offers a restaurant with beach loungers. In the ‘busy areas’ you have to pay for a lounger … in the ‘quieter areas’ the loungers are free if you buy something to eat or drink.
ANJUNA
A small, quiet beach … but I didn’t like the rocks underwater that get exposed at low tide.
BAGA
A busy beach next to a pretty river.
WHERE TO STAY
Given GoaMiles costs, I suggest that GRANDPAckers find somewhere within walking distance of a beach. For most, this means being west of the main (Aguada – Siolim) Road.
The beach is long … there are plenty of options.
ACCOMMODATION OPTIONS
We were in Candolim at the most expensive time of year … accommodation prices can double. This is especially true for AirBnB rentals.
BOOKING.COM / HOTELS.COM / AGODA
Typical ‘Peak Season’ costs are:
With Agoda and Hotels, check the details before you book to make sure that you are getting a private bathroom.
AIRBnB / HOLIDAY RENTALS
You are unlikely to find an AirBnB option in our price range in Peak Season. Costs remain comparatively high vs hotels in shoulder season. Here’s an example of prices for a 1 month rental mid Jan to mid Feb 2025:
I suggest that you look at getting a hotel room (see above).
SUMMARY
RECOMMENDATION: You probably want aircon.
Unless you want to spoil yourself for Xmas, I suggest that you come here in Shoulder Season: mid October to end November or mid January to end April. Typical costs in Shoulder Season are:
The accommodation advertising on the internet are asking tourist prices. Even responses on Facebook Groups were asking too much.
Youngsters may prefer to go to the busier Calangute Beach area. More senior travelers are likely to prefer the quieter and more elderly demographic of Candolim Beach.
I find that AGODA is better than BOOKING and HOTELS in this part of the World.
COST SAVING STRATEGY
I have a friend who paid only 25,000rs / US$300 per month (800rs / US$10 per night) for a basic studio apartment in Calangute over Xmas 2023 / 2024 … but you have to be here to find accommodation at this price.
There are many many times more places for rent than you find on the internet search sites. As you walk around the streets you see places for rent everywhere … they display a phone number.
To save money (any time of year) you could:
- Book a cheap hotel for your first 3 nights;
- Rent a scooter for 400rs;
- Tour the side roads around the beach areas;
- Find, contact, and do a 4 week deal with one of these ‘off grid’ rentals.
I don’t know for sure but there is a high probability that you can get your accommodation cost down closer to 1,200 / US$15 per night using this strategy.
The waiter at Floyds Shack (our favourite beach shack) told us that Floyds have basic apartments behind the shack going for US$500 / month for a studio and US$1,000 / month for a 2 bedroom. These apartments are set back only 15 metres from the beach.
ACCOMMODATION SEARCH
Have a look yourself:
DRINK
Alcohol is cheaper in Goa than other places in India.
You will find liquor stores everywhere. A 750ml bottle of an Indian beer like Kingfisher Premium costs 100rs. In a bar / restaurant you will pay about 170rs – 200rs for the same. On the beach, the cost is usually 250rs.
Please Note: The Indians call 330ml a ‘pint’.
You can get 750ml bottles of (Indian) vodka / rum / brandy / whiskey for as little as 150rs but, for something more ‘drinkable’ you need to start looking at 400rs and up.
FOOD
Food in Goa is cheap but more expensive than other places in India. You are paying a premium to be in Goa.
In this section, I score restaurant meals based on value for money.
RULE OF THUMB
I use an interesting ‘rule of thumb’ when assessing the likely ‘value for money’ of the food in a restaurant (obviously, this ignores things like location and atmosphere).
The most simple thing you can make in India is a Roti bread. In the cheapest places where only the locals know and eat they cost 7-10rs each. In restaurants where tourists are more likely to eat:
- 15rs is cheap;
- 20rs is more normal;
- 30rs is getting a bit pricey;
- 40rs may indicate that the food is over-priced.
THE PHOENIX (8/10 – 8.5/10)
The Phoenix Multi-Cuisine Bar & Restaurant is located down a side road leading to North Candolim Beach.
The Phoenix is very popular with expats and puts on entertainment most nights: karaoke, quiz, bingo, etc. 
A Mutton Balti (390rs) with Plain Naan (80rs) for 470rs scored 8.5/10. The accompanying Onion Bhaji for 160rs scored 8.5/10. A Mutton Rogan Josh (390rs) with Jeera Rice (100rs) scored 8.5/10.
A Saag Aloo Curry and Chicken Balti with 2x Lachha Paratha shared between 2 people for 840rs scored 8/10. A Beef Curry with Mushroom Jeera Rice for 470rs that scored 8/10.
A large 650ml Kingfisher Premium beer was 170rs. 60ml Romanov vodka was 80rs and a bottle of sprite was 30rs.
And, they do a Full English Breakfast for 620rs.
THE MANGO GROVE (7.5/10)
The Mango Grove is located on the main Aguada Road opposite Newton’s Supermarket. This restaurant is very popular with the expat community and you may need to wait for a table.
A Fish Ambotik with Rice for 440rs scored 8/10. A large 650ml Kingfisher Premium was 200rs, a Romanov Vodka was 100rs, and a 330ml Sprite was 50rs.
We also ordered a Green Beef Curry with Rice (440rs) and a Green Chicken Curry with Rice (440rs) which scored an average of 7/10.
THE BANANA LEAF (8/10)
The Banana Leaf is located in North Candolim on the main Aguada Road.
A shared Aloo Chaat starter for 129rs scored 9/10.
A Chef’s Special Malaba Pepper Mushroom Masala Dosa for 320rs scored 8/10.
A Neer Dosa with Mushroom Sukka for 425rs scored 7.5/10 … but this would have been 8/10 if the Neer Dosa had been a Naan instead. A Chef’s Special Mushroom Sukka Dosa for 275rs scored 8/10.
Their Special Veg Thali for 400rs scored 9/10. We had this accompanied by another Chef’s Special Malaba Pepper Mushroom Masala Dosa and, this time, a Mushroom Sukka (390rs) with 5x Puri Bread (120rs) which scored 8.5/10.
The Banana Leaf would have scored at least 8.5/10 if it wasn’t for their drinks menu. Drinks were over-priced with a 330ml Kingfisher Premium for 129rs. Their cheapest vodka was 149rs for 30ml.
THE ANNAPURNA (7.5/10)
The Annapurna is located on the main Fort Aguada Road opposite Newton’s Supermarket. It is one of the cheapest bars in town and it is very popular with expats.
A Chicken Vindaloo (350rs) with a Lachha Paratha (60rs) for 410rs scored 7/10.
A large 650ml Kingfisher Premium was 150rs. A Romanov vodka was 90rs and a 330ml Sprite was 40rs.
We ordered 2 other meals: 2x Goan Chicken Xacuti (2x 350rs) with Jeera Rice (120rs) and Garlic Naan (80rs). These meals also scored 7/10. The breads were disappointing otherwise the Annapurna would have scored 7.5/10.
We returned another night. A Kingfish meal for 800rs scored 9/10.
This was much better value for money than the Kingfish that we had at the Harmony Bistro.
THE MEERA BAI (7/10)
Meera Bai is located on the main Fort Aguada Road.
A Special Veg Thali for 350rs scored 7/10.
We ordered 2 other meals that also scored 7/10.
THE FISHERMAN’S COVE (7/10)
The Fisherman’s Cove is located on the main Aguada Road near Newton’s Supermarket.
A Fish Ambotik with Rice for 540rs scored 6/10 … it was just lumps of fish in a hot sauce. A large 650ml Kingfisher Premium was 170rs, a Romanov Vodka was 160rs, and a 330ml Sprite was 60rs.
We ordered a Chicken Chow Mein for 500rs that scored 7.5/10 and a Prawn Curry with Rice for 540rs that scored 7/10.
The food and drink here are reasonable value for money, but the main reason why you come to the Fisherman’s Cove is for the live music and atmosphere … which make it one of the best venues in town.
THE HARMONY BISTRO (7/10).
Harmony Bistro is located down a North Candolim beach side road. It is an up-market restaurant that seems to be very popular with the expat community.
A Paneer Tikka Masala with a cheese naan for 480rs disappointingly scored 6.5/10.
A Kingfish Fillet for 750rs scored 7.5/10.
They also do a Full English Breakfast for 490rs. The coffee and bread were top quality. We thought that this breakfast was better value for money than the Full English that we had at the Phoenix.
THE UDUPI (7/10)
The Udupi Shree Sagar Pure Veg Restaurant is located on the main Agoda Fort Road between Candolim and Calangute.
Here, we shared a selection of new and different things between 3 people:
- Set Dosa 130rs;
- Puri Bhaji 120rs;
- Stuffed Paratha 150rs;
- Onion Bhajiya 90rs;
- Garlic Naan 110rs;
- Stuffed Mushrooms 280rs;
- Veg Kadai 280rs.
The problem with this restaurant is knowing what to order … there are no pictures in the menu to help you. Also, the waiter does not speak good English and he can get your order wrong. We returned and tried:
- Puri Bhaji 120rs;
- Bhel Puri Chaat 100rs (very disappointing);
- Paneer Paratha 160rs;
- Mushroom Hakka Noodles 260rs;
- Mushroom Biryani 270rs.
THE KAHVI (6/10)
The Kahvi is an open air restaurant located down a North Candolim beach side road. It never seems to be busy.
They have a ‘buy-2-get-3’ Happy Hour between 5pm and 7pm where a 330ml Kingfisher Ultra 120rs (the 330ml Kingfisher Premium is 100rs but they never seem to have any 🙂 ).
Stuffed Chicken Breast with Creamy Mashed Potato for 400rs scored 7/10. The chicken breast was big.
We also tried the Chicken & Mushroom Stroganoff for 375rs which only scored 5/10.
CONCY’S (6/10)
Concy’s Restaurant is located down a side road on the way to the North Candolim Beach.
A Kingfish Fillet with Boiled Vegetables and Fries for 500rs scored 6/10. A large 650ml Kingfisher Premium was 150rs, a 60ml Romanov Vodka was 80rs, and a 330ml Sprite was 80rs.
We also ordered a Pork Vindaloo with 3x Chapati for 490rs that scored 6/10.
We had high hopes for this small, family restaurant but they disappointed with small portions and average food.
VIVA GOA (5/10)
The Viva Goa is popular with expats. It has a pleasant outdoor area.
A 750ml Kingfisher Premium (4.5%) is 170rs. A Kingfisher Strong (8%) is 180rs. The Vegetarian Thali for 180rs scored 5/10.
We also tried:
- The Viva Goa Chicken Special for 290rs (which was basically chicken kebab with a simple salad) … a Naan bread to go with it was an extra 60rs; and
- Goa Chili Chicken for 220rs … Basmati Rice was an extra 120rs.
The menu stated that a tax of 5% on food and 22% on alcohol will be charged but they didn’t charge us.
JIYO’S (5/10)
Jiyo’s is a budget restaurant on the main Fort Aguada Road.
They do not serve alcohol but they allow you to bring your own alcohol if you want to. There is a supermarket across the road.
A Half Tandoori Chicken with a butter naan for 390rs scored 5/10.
We ordered 2 other meals and all scored 5/10. However, we looked at what other people were eating and felt that we had ordered the wrong meals.
GENERAL COSTS
Presumably in an effort to avoid the need for bartering on grocery items, every product has its MRP printed on its label. Check what’s on the label to ensure that you don’t get over-charged.
Here are some example costs for items purchased in a convenience store:
- 1L water = 20rs ; 2L water = 30rs
- 300g white sliced bread = 50rs ; multigrain = 60rs
- 12 Eggs = 165rs
- 200g Fruit Jam = 85rs
- 475g Kellogg’s Cornflakes = 195rs
- 500ml pasteurised milk = 27rs
- 200g Indian filter coffee = 140rs
- 750ml bottle of ‘drinkable’ spirit (e.g. vodka / rum) = 350rs – 500rs
- 1L coke / pepsi = 55rs ; 2.25L coke / pepsi = 100rs
- 1kg wash powder = 145rs
GRANDPAcking COSTS
Read About – GRANDPAcking Costs if you don’t know how to interpret my figures.
This Christmas / New Year in Goa was a special event which has made my GRANDPAcking costs higher than usual.
Costs are broken down into Cost Of Existence (COE) and Cost Of Living (COL):
- COE: Is the basic costs of just being there;
- COL: Is the additional costs that make being there fun.
MY GRANDPAcking COSTS
AVERAGE EXCHANGE RATE / (BLUE) TOP SECTION
I lost an average of 1.75% on cash that I took out of ATMs. I rarely used a credit card / Wise Debit Card.
COST OF EXISTENCE (COE) / (ORANGE) MIDDLE SECTION
ACCOMMODATION
I spent 3 nights in a budget hotel in Calangute paying a total of 4,000rs / US$50.
I then moved into a 2 bedroom apartment in Candolim for 1 month. I shared the costs of that apartment with my sister and brother-in-law. My share was 40% of the US$2,200 rental.
FOOD & BEVERAGES
We bought in groceries and ate most of our breakfasts at home. I don’t eat lunch … but I did buy drinks for the free use of a lounger down at the beach. We were out in restaurants for Dinner every night.
Unlimited water was included in our apartment rental.
My average daily cost was about 645rs / US$7.75 per day.
SIM CARD / MOBILE DATA
I topped up my Airtel SIM Card with a 56 day 838rs package that offered up to 3Gb per day, upto 100 SMSs per day, and unlimited domestic calls. The cost has been pro rata’d across my 32 days in Rajasthan.
VISA EXTENSION / NATIONAL PARK FEES
My 6 month eVisa cost of US$41 has been pro rata’d.
TRAVEL INSURANCE
My Backpacker Level Travel Insurance policy has been pro rata’d.
NECESSARY TRANSPORT
This is the transport that I had to have to exist comfortably in Candolim.
COST OF LIVING (COL) / (BROWN) BOTTOM SECTION
LIVING COSTS
My main costs were bars and my scooter rental. These average 700rs / US$8.50 per day.
We tended to have 2-3 beers whilst out every night. We also had some in the apartment fridge if we wanted one back at home.
Obviously, we also had the additional costs of Xmas and New Year.
IN / OUT COSTS
I paid 900rs for an official taxi from Thivim Railway Station to my Calangute Hotel. I paid 500rs for a GoaMiles taxi from my hotel in Candolim to the Panaji Bus Stand (where I connected to a bus heading south to Palolem Beach).
OTHER COSTS
Other minor bits and pieces are mopped up in this section.
GRANDPAcking SUMMARY
My COE was 3,200rs / US$38 per day (57% of my daily budget).
My COL was 900rs / US$11 per day (16% of my daily budget).
My Grand Total cost was 4,100rs / US$49 per day (73% of my daily budget).
I had ‘Money to Spend’ … I still had 1,500rs / US$18 left over each day … I could have done heaps more and still stayed within budget.
YOUR GRANDPAcking COSTS
This would be your budget:
ORANGE COLUMNS / LEFT HAND SIDE
The left of the spreadsheet (orange columns) shows the costs for a GRANDPAcking Couple living to GRANDPAcking Standard using a Standard (Home) Bank Credit / Debit Card where possible and withdrawing cash from ATMs where cash is required.
These costs are for a 1 month stay in Shoulder Season (avoiding Xmas and New Year).
COST OF EXISTENCE (COE)
ACCOMMODATION
Expect to pay 1,500rs / US$18 per night for accommodation.
FOOD & BEVERAGES
Expect to pay just over 1,360rs / US$16 per day eating in ‘local restaurants’ three times each day.
SIM CARD / MOBILE DATA
A 28 day Airtel 500rs new SIM Card & Package bought at the airport PLUS a 99rs 1 week extension.
VISA
Two US$26 one month Tourist eVisas.
TRAVEL INSURANCE
A typical Backpacker Level Travel Insurance policy has been pro rata’d.
NECESSARY TRANSPORT & SIGHTSEEING
You are walking everywhere.
SUMMARY
Your COE is about 3,300rs / US$40 per day. This is 59% of your daily budget.
This means that you have 2,300rs / US$27 left to spend each day.
You will have ‘Money to Spend’ and more than enough to polish off every day with a few of beers.
RIGHT HAND SIDE / PURPLE COLUMNS
The right of the spreadsheet (purple columns) shows the costs for a GRANDPAcking Couple living to GRANDPAcking Standard using a Wise Debit Card where possible and withdrawing cash from ATMs where cash is required.
Due to the low use of Foreign Credit Cards in India, the Wise Debit Card makes no significant difference.
COST OF EXISTENCE (COE)
ACCOMMODATION
No change.
FOOD & BEVERAGES
No change.
SIM CARD / MOBILE DATA
No change.
VISA
No change.
TRAVEL INSURANCE
No change.
NECESSARY TRANSPORT & SIGHTSEEING
No change.
SUMMARY
Your COE is about 3,300rs / US$39 per day. This is 59% of your daily budget.
You have ‘Money to Spend’.
GRANDPAcking SUMMARY
A GRANDPAcking couple can easily do a month in Calangute / Candolim on a western State Pension Budget.
If you can get your accommodation cost down to 1,200rs / US$15 per day, you should have ‘Money to Burn’.
If you get in groceries so that you can eat breakfast (and, perhaps, lunch) at home, you should also have ‘Money to Burn’.
CONCLUSION
Goa is starting to get some bad press. Many are saying that it has become over-priced and that tourists are starting to go elsewhere.
Given that Goa is one of the most expensive holiday spots in India, I was pleasantly surprised to find that it is still very affordable.
If you like places that have a bit of beach life as well as a wide selection of restaurants and bars you should come and have a look.
RETIREMENT
Could you afford to retire here on a GRANDPAcking budget? YES. Would you want to? YES.
TTFN
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