FEBRUARY 2025
OVERVIEW
If you haven’t done so already, please read my India Tips, Tricks, and Traps post first. This will help you better understand what you are going to read in this post.
We have just had a look at Munroe Island.
<<< our next stop is Varkala, Kerala >>>
EXCHANGE RATE
The currency in India is the Rupee (the ‘INR’ or ‘rs’). At the time of writing, the exchange rates for the major currencies were:
| US$1 | EU€1 | GB£1 | |
| Published Wholesale Rate | 86.35 | 89.93 | 106.57 |
| Actual Exchange Rate (Wise Debit Card) | 85.48 | 89.03 | 105.50 |
| Actual Exchange Rate (Typical Credit Card) | 84.40 | 87.91 | 104.17 |
| Actual Exchange Rate (Good ATM) | 84.40 | 87.99 | 104.17 |
| Actual Exchange Rate (Bad ATM) | 78.58 | 81.84 | 96.98 |
Over time, these exchange rates will change. Please check the current rates.
For simplicity, think of a 500rs note as being US$6 / EU€6 / GB£5.
ATMs
Be careful which ATM you use. I use SBI Bank ATMs WITHOUT CONVERSION.
WISE DEBIT CARD
I keep my costs down by using a Wise Debit Card.
WHEN TO GO
The West Coast has a tropical monsoonal climate with a dry season and a heavy monsoon the rest of year. There is no cold season.
The best time to come is December through April.
GETTING THERE
I caught a 7:40am train from Mundrothuruth Railway Station (Munroe Island) direct to Varkala.
I paid 45rs for the 50 minute journey (which ended up being 63rs after online fees).
My hotel organised a tuk tuk to pick me up at 7:30am.
The train was slightly late … I was in Varkala by 9am.
I ran the 200rs ‘gauntlet’ of tuk tuk drivers who were waiting at the railway station. I was going 3.4 km to my hotel. It was hilarious … the tuk tuk drivers got together and tried to act all confused about where I was going … this is standard practice in India … it is a prelude to quoting a high price.
I just smiled at them and walked 20m up the road and caught a ‘real’ tuk tuk … and paid 100rs.
VARKALA TRANSPORT
UBER
UBER does not operate here.
TUK TUKs & TAXIs
Rule-of-thumb prices apply 🙂 … just point at their published ‘certified’ rate as written on the passenger side of the driver’s seat.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
There is no ‘public transport’ in Varkala.
SCOOTER RENTAL
My hotel told me that the ‘standard rate’ in Varkala is 600rs per 24 hours and that he could arrange one. I paid it. BUT, I bet that I could have gotten it from somewhere in town for 400rs … if I had tried.
BICYCLE RENTAL
I didn’t try.
INTERNET / WIFI
I had an Indian SIM Card from Airtel. I had a strong 4G signal everywhere.
ABOUT VARKALA
Varkala is a well-known tourist destination set atop a cliff over-looking the Arabian Sea. Restaurants and shops clutter the clifftop.
About 80 steps take you down from the clifftop to Varkala Beach. There are several to choose from.
The black part of the sand on Varkala Beach contains thorium oxide, which is a radioactive substance. Thorium and thorium oxide and its isotopes are found all over Kerala.
MY ACCOMMODATION
I used AGODA to book 4 nights in a Standard Double Fan Room at the Deauvill Homestay. I paid 1,285rs / US$15 per night. This was subject to an Agoda ‘cash back’ of 228rs per night which reduced the ultimate price to about 1,050rs.
I was happy with my room. The fan was enough, the wifi was good, and I enjoyed sitting out on the patio working.
One minus: No hot water shower.
WHERE TO STAY
There are more than 300 resorts and hotels in Varkala.
It is much of a muchness. You can stay anywhere. The ‘key’ is to book accommodation that is within 100m of the cliff front … most have a little alleyway nearby that can get you to that cliff front within a few minutes.
EAT & DRINK
You are back in a ‘tourist town’ … you are paying at least 25%-50% more than elsewhere in India.
One of the cheapest places to be found is the ‘Tickety Boo’ which is run by a lovely group of deaf and dumb guys.
A ‘Dosa Set’ that would normally cost 50rs … costs 80rs in Varkala (add another 50rs for the double omelette).
SOUTH VARKALA BEACHES
We start at South Cliff Beach and head north.
Eanikka Beach has a different ‘vibe’ vs Varkala Beach.
SOUTHERN BEACHES
We start at Perumathura Beach and head north.
There isn’t much to talk about south of the Varkala beaches.
NORTHERN BEACHES
When you come to somewhere like Varkala, you always wonder … is there something better (and secret) nearby …
Nope … but wait! … YES! …
ODAYAM BEACH
I fell in love with this place immediately. If you want to ‘party’ forget it! If you want to holiday in an idyllic place … look here!
Keep an eye on it … watch the price … wait for the ‘deals” … and, you should be able to book a room here for less than 2,500rs / US$30 per night! Many people will think that to be a bargain for something in this type of location
GETTING AWAY
I am jumping on a ‘local’ train to make my way to Kovalam.
YOUR GRANDPAcking COSTS
Typical costs DO NOT apply. Add 25%.
A GRANDPAcking couple should have ‘Money to Spend‘.
CONCLUSION
Varkala is a ‘tourist town’ … and, IMHO, there are many better places to be.
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