NOVEMBER 2025
OVERVIEW
We have completed our rainy season ‘optimal loop’ through S E Asia from August through November.
We were in:
- Bali, Indonesia from the middle of August to the middle of September;
- Northern Laos from the middle of September to the middle of October;
- Southern Phuket, Thailand from the middle of October to the middle of November.
To cut a long story short, if you don’t want lots of rain, your only choice is Indonesia at this time of year.
Anyway, it is time to go over-budget.
<<< We now go on a 5 night SCUBA Liveaboard in the Andaman Sea >>>
If you want to see what the same trip is like in, say, February, read these blogs (which contain a lot more pictures than I include in this post):
- Andaman Sea – Thailand – Scuba Dive Liveaboard (2015).
- Andaman Sea – Thailand – Scuba Dive Gallery (2015).
- Andaman Sea – Thailand – SCUBA Liveaboard – Living Ideas (2023).
EXCHANGE RATE
The currency in Thailand is the Baht (the ‘THB’ or ‘b’). At the time of writing, the exchange rates for the major currencies were:
| US$1 | EU€1 | GB£1 | |
| Published Wholesale Rate | 32.35 | 37.51 | 42.55 |
| Actual Exchange Rate (Wise Debit Card) | 32.12 | 37.25 | 42.25 |
| Actual Exchange Rate (Typical Credit Card) | 31.38 | 36.38 | 41.27 |
| Actual Exchange Rate (Good ATM) | 31.41 | 36.42 | 41.31 |
Over time, these exchange rates will change. Please check the current rates.
For simplicity, think of a THB500 note as being US$16 / EU€14 / GB£12.
ATMs
ATM Fees in Thailand are ‘high’ compared with other countries. The Thailand Life provide an excellent write-up on this.
In summary, take out as much as you can in as few transactions as you can from the right bank: I take out THB30,000 from Krungsri ATMs. But, for many, this may be too much cash. The Krungsri fee was 250b (up from 220b last year). Your home bank will charge their own fees on top of this (if any). If you are asked by the ATM, always choose to continue WITHOUT CONVERSION.
WISE DEBIT CARD
I keep my costs down by using a Wise Debit Card.
Wise allow me to withdraw up to US$250 per calendar month from ATMs without adding any of their own fees. Thereafter, I use whichever Debit Card provides the lowest ATM withdrawal rate (which is, usually, still Wise at 1.75%).
GETTING THERE
Phuket is well connected and it has its own International Airport … many international flights go ‘direct’ to Phuket without the need to connect / transfer in Bangkok. You can also connect through Bangkok to Krabi.
eVISA
Most tourists do not need an eVisa: you should get a 60 day Visa On Arrival (VOA).
THAILAND DIGITAL ARRIVAL CARD (TDAC)
However, you are required to complete a TDAC online within 3 days of your arrival.
After completing the TDAC, you will be emailed a QR code that you show (on your smartphone) at Immigration.
PHUKET AIRPORT
This is a modern and efficient airport. Processing is quick and easy.
On exiting to the Arrivals lounge, just follow the signs to ‘Public Bus and Taxis’.
Most people either base themselves somewhere on Phuket Island or they head north and base themselves in Khao Lak.
PHUKET
You get from Phuket to Khao Lak in one of 3 ways:
- A Taxi or GRAB Car from somewhere in Phuket (if available, expect to pay 1,000b-1,500b depending on your negotiation skills);
- Being picked up by your Dive Shop’s minivan on the day of departure (some Dive Shops offer this for free, other charge);
- A bus from Phuket Town (a 1st Class bus from Bus Terminal 2 costs 130b and takes less than 2 hours depending on traffic).
KHAO LAK
Unless you specifically want to stay in Phuket, I suggest that you head straight to Khao Lak.
AIS SIMCARD
At the airport, you will find SIMcard kiosks everywhere … for good reason, they charge you very high prices. This is well documented on the internet. Prices start at 699b for 7 days and 1 month starts at about 999b. I suggest that you do not buy a SIM at the airport.
They have free wifi in the airport that lasts 30 minutes. At the airport, you can use this to sort out how to get to your hotel. You may want to download Google Maps to your smartphone in advance to help you.
Once at your destination, go to an official AIS Store. There, you can buy a ‘5G The One SIM’ for 50b and a 1 month package for 300b.
This package gives you:
- 20gb of 5G; plus
- 60gb at 15mbs; plus
- Unlimited gbs at 1mbs thereafter; plus
- Unlimited free calls upto 15mins per call (all networks); plus
- Unlimited AIS SUPER WIFI (which allows you to connect to AIS public networks in places like malls); and
- Some other 1st month ‘freebies’.
You need your passport to register the SIM in the store. They will do this for you for free.
TOP UPS
The AIS Mobile App allows top-ups using foreign credit cards.
I already had a SIM Card from Phuket. My previous plan had expired.
I got onto the AIS App and purchased a 15 day 9GB Data Only promotional package for 150b.
ACCOMMODATION
PLEASE NOTE: Most 5 night SCUBA Liveaboards leave on a Wednesday or a Thursday, so I advise you to book into something reasonable for an appropriate number of nights in advance.
The largest number of resorts, restaurants, convenience stores and travel companies are found both on Phet Kasem at the center of town and along Nang Thong beach itself. Nang Thong is the true center of the Khao Lak area.
To get something decent, I suggest that you book well in advance as soon as you see someone offering a good discount.
You should be able to find something (excluding Breakfast) for under 1,000b / US$30 per night. I suggest that you stay in the Green Shaded area:
It doesn’t really matter where you stay when you first arrive. You just need to be here … if you are in Khao Lak, your chosen Liveaboard provider will (usually) pick you up and drop you off at your hotel for free.
MY ACCOMMODATION
I used BOOKING.COM to book 3 nights in a Double Room at the Noza Inn.
I got a discounted price of 656b / US$21 per night excluding breakfast for the 3 nights before my Liveaboard departure.
Two days later, the rate had already gone up 50% to 981b / US$31 per night for the 2 nights on my Liveaboard return.
I chose the Noza because it was conveniently located in the center of town and close to my Dive Shop.
My room was good and spacious. But, it did not have the ‘advertised’ flat screen TV and the wifi was unusuable (so, I sneakily used the wifi provided by the hotel next door).
EAT & DRINK (KHAO LAK)
Khao Lak is up there with Phuket as one of the more expensive places in Thailand … expect, for most things, to pay 50% more than what you would pay 50 km away to the south in Krabi or to the north in Takua Pa.
The Khao Lak main road is littered with over-priced westernised eateries.
EAT
In the cheaper eateries (such as the 835 Streetfood & Restaurant), simple meals start at 100b with plenty of nice meals around 120b.
DRINK
Expect to pay at least 100b for a large 620ml Chang Beer. Local spirit Cocktails start at 99b.
A large Chang at the 835 is only 80b.
ABOUT ANDAMAN SEA SCUBA LIVEABOARDS
Phuket Island services the southern Andaman Sea (e.g. the area around Phi Phi Island).
The northern Andaman Sea is serviced out of Thap Lamu Pier just 10km south of Khao Lak.
FINDING YOUR LIVEABOARD
You can book your Liveaboard online and, sometimes, you can get ‘last minute’ discounts especially in Shoulder Season (e.g. in November).
Sometimes, you can get a better price if you just turn up in person and ask around (but, since COVID, this has become more and more difficult and this approach can be risky … you could miss out completely).
I was looking for anyone who still had a spare birth on a 5 night (19 dive) trip to the Similan Islands, Koh Bon, Koh Tachai, and Richelieu Rock.
This is going to be my 3rd time on this exact same trip … I knew what to expect.
2015
I did my first trip in 2015 on the Manta Queen 7 with Khao Lak SCUBA Adventures.
I walked in off-the-street and did a last minute deal:
- 5 nights for a total of 25,900b / US$825 (a last minute discount of 10%)
- Including all rental equipment needed for the dives (except the Dive Computer)
- I have my own Dive Computer
- 19 SCUBA dives
- A shared Twin Cabin (no private bathroom)
- A free upgrade to a 15L Nitrox tank
- Dive Centre Dive Insurance of 1,300b
- Marine Park Fees of 2,000b
- Dive Master and crew tips were extra – tips are almost ‘expected’ on these SCUBA Liveaboard trips (budget 5-10%)
A total cost of 29,200b / US$930 excluding tips.
2023
I did my second trip in 2023 on the Manta Queen 3 with Khao Lak SCUBA Adventures. The MQ3 is the ‘flag ship’ of the fleet.
I walked in off-the-street and did a last minute deal:
- 5 nights for a total of 29,700b / US$946 (a last minute discount of 10%)
- 500b / day = 2,500b for a full set of dive equipment (excluding Dive Computer)
- I have my own Dive Computer
- 19 SCUBA dives
- A shared Twin Cabin (no private bathroom)
- Dive Centre Dive Insurance 1,300b
- Marine Park Fees 2,500b
- Dive Master and crew tips were extra
My total cost was 36,000b / US$1,146 and I took another 4,000b to give to the crew as tips.
2025
I booked online 2 months in advance using Livaboard.com. This time I chose the Manta Queen 8 with Khao Lak SCUBA Adventures:
- 5 nights for a total of 27,700b / US$860 (a discount of 20% for booking 2 months in advance)
- 500b / day = 2,500b for a full set of dive equipment (excluding Dive Computer)
- I have my own Dive Computer
- 19 SCUBA dives
- A shared Twin Cabin (with private bathroom)
- Dive Assure (booked online) Dive Insurance 2,450b / US$79 (this was a mistake, I could have got Dive Centre Dive Insurance for 1,300b)
- Marine Park Fees 2,500b
- Dive Master and crew tips were extra
My total cost was 35,150b / US$1,120 and I took another 4,000b to give to the crew as tips.
NOTE: On the day that we departed on the 20th November 2025, my Dive Shop was still offering a ‘special discount’ because not all cabins were full.
THE MANTA QUEEN 8 (MQ8)
All cabins offer AC (which is not always required at this time of year) and most cabins offer a private en-suite bathroom.
Social areas include the indoor lounge with a TV and a large sun deck. Meals are freshly cooked, buffet-style in the open-air dining area, and snacks and fruit are served between dives.
IN SUMMARY
Prices have gone up very little over the past 10 years:
- 2015 US$930;
- 2023 US$1,146;
- 2025 US$1,120 (with ensuite).
Prices are very competitive and an Andaman Sea Liveaboard is still one of the cheapest deals in the world.
THE ADVENTURE BEGINS
At this time of year, the itinerary can vary depending on conditions. Our original schedule was:
- Day 2: 4 dives in the Similans;
- Day 3: 2 Similans & 2 Koh Bon;
- Day 4: 4 Koh Tachai;
- Day 5: 4 Richelieu Rock;
- Day 6: 2 Koh Bon & 1 Boomsung Wreck.
Our actual itinerary was as follows …
DAY 1 – PICKUP & REGISTRATION
The Dive Shop picks you up from your Khao Lak hotel for free (if required). They get you to the Dive Shop by about 4:30pm.
You enroll, show proof of your diving level, proof of Dive Insurance, and sign the standard ‘diving waiver’. You pay any remaining bills (e.g. equipment rental) and the 2,500b Marine Park Fee (must be cash). If you haven’t already done so in advance, you will be taken to the fitting room to select your equipment.
SUGGESTION: You can arrive, yourself, any time after 3:00pm to be fitted for your equipment and to avoid the ‘rush’.
Your Dive Shop will send you a checklist in advance of what to bring on board. Your main suitcase is usually safely and securely stored at your Dive Shop.
NOTE: Sometimes, no alcohol is sold on the boat … if so, and you want to drink in the evenings, you may need to bring your own. The MQ8 sold small 330ml cans of Chang for 80b.
THE UP-SELL
When you are diving 4 times each day, your dive schedule is determined by safety concerns. Typically:
- Your 1st dive of the day: a maximum of 30 meters for 50 minutes;
- Your 2nd: a max of 25-30 metres for 50 minutes;
- Your 3rd: a max of 20-25 metres for 50 minutes;
- Your 4th: a max of 15-20 metres for 50 minutes.
Depending on your group, you can choose to trade-off more depth in your 2nd, 3rd, and 4th dives for fewer minutes.
Your Dive Shop may try and up-sell you to Nitrox for an extra 2,500b per trip (or 500b per day). This, theoretically, allows you to go deeper (in your 2nd, 3rd, and 4th dives) and maintain the 50 minutes.
NOTE: We had no problem meeting the 4-dive-per-day schedule on Air … personally, I saw no benefit in paying extra for a larger Air Tank or Nitrox. Those who upgraded did no more than we did … there always seems to be 1 person in the group that uses their tank up faster than everyone else … which forces everyone in the group to head for the surface regardless.
TO BOAT
We left for Thap Lamu Pier on a Minibus early at 4:45pm. We were at the boat in 15 minutes. Another group of 8 people were coming from Phuket and arrived at 6:30pm.
Your room is assigned once you are on the boat. Don’t expect much! These cabins are very small … but sufficient.
After you check in to your room, you return to the dining area for a full briefing and dinner. The food on board is not high quality but there is plenty of it. The boat sets off over-night to the Similan Islands.
DAY 2 – SIMILAN ISLANDS (4 DIVES)
You are awoken at 6:00am for a snack and a full dive briefing.
Your first dive starts at 7:15am. This first dive is a ‘test dive’. You are put into an initial group, assessed, then moved around to your final group based upon your noted ‘performance’.
I am NOT a fan of the Similan Islands … I find the diving to be ‘average’ at best … but I do enjoy the ‘swim throughs’. Visibility was good, but the best that I could score Dives 1-4 on day 2 is 4/10.
Between dives you can pop off to the beach on the dingy.
DAY 3 – SIMILAN ISLANDS (4 DIVES)
The boat got news that the seas further north were still rough, so we stayed in the Similans for the whole of day 3. At the Similans, we were forced to remain on the leeward side of the island where it was the calmest.
I got bored with the Similans dive sites … so I did not do Dive 8.
DAY 4 – SIMILANS (1 DIVE) & KOH BON (1 DIVE) & KOH TACHAI (1 DIVE & 1 NIGHT DIVE)
I decided not to do Dive 9 in the Similans because (due to conditions) it was the same site as one that we had already done that I scored only 3/10.
We got better news about the conditions in Koh Bon. The boat set off for Koh Bon. The normal 2.5 hour trip took 3.5 hours.
I scored the Koh Bon Dive 10 6/10. We, then immediately headed on to Koh Tachai.
Dive 11 (The Dome) needed us to go down on a moorline. The descent was chaotic. We lost 1 of our group. At the bottom we searched for him for 10 minutes then abandoned the dive. When we got back to the boat, we found him already there. He too had abandoned his dive. I scored this dive 0/10.
The Koh Tachai Dive 12 night dive went better and scored 6/10. There is something sadistic watching sharks and barracuda use your torch lights to find their next meal 🙂
DAY 5 – RICHELIEU ROCK (2 DIVES) & KOH TACHAI (1 DIVE) & KOH BON (1 NIGHT DIVE)
It was touch-and-go whether or not we would continue on to Richelieu Rock. After receiving better news, our boat set off at 3am.
Richelieu Rock is underwater and is known for rough seas and strong currents.
Richelieu is one of the most famous dive sites in the world. There is good reason for it … it is teeming with life and soft corals. Richelieu Rock is the ‘jewel’ of the trip.
For Dive 13 we needed to go down on a moorline. Richelieu did not disappoint but visibility was less than 15 metres so I only scored it 6/10.
For Dive 14 we used the moorline again. Another 6/10. However the seas were getting choppy and the 1.5 metre waves made it dangerous to get back on the boat from the dingy. We abandoned Richelieu and headed back to Koh Tachai.
For Dive 15 we needed to go down using a moorline again. However, we were dropped off too far away and our group got swept away by the current whilst trying to swim to it.
Our dingy came to pick us up using a tow line. We picked up 6 more ‘drifters’ along the way. There were now too many people on the tow line so 3 people had to get left behind whilst the rest jumped in the dingy.
We arrived at the moorline 40 minutes late. On a tow line in these seas, we needed to use our air piece. One of our group only had 110 bar left. We managed to dive for only about 15 minutes. I scored this dive 0/10.
Our boat nicknamed ‘The Dome’ dive at Koh Tachai ‘The Doom’ dive.
We abandoned Koh Tachai and headed back to Koh Bon. We finally arrived at dusk.
Dive 16 (by default) became a 2nd night dive but, this time, I only scored it 5/10.
DAY 6 – KOH BON (2 DIVES) & BOOMSUNG WRECK (CANCELLED)
We did Dive 17 & Dive 18 in Koh Bon (average score 5/10).
Boomsung Wreck is in open seas. We knew that, in these conditions, visibility was going to be less than 5 metres. Dive 19 was cancelled and we started the 4.5 hour trip back to the mainland.
OUR RETURN
You get your final debrief and a reminder that you should tip the crew and your Team Lead.
We were told that the ‘guideline’ is 500b per day for the crew and what ‘felt right’ for your Team Lead.
Those staying in Khao Lak were back at their hotel before 5pm. Those staying in Phuket arrived 2-3 hours later depending on their location.
ROUND UP
A Liveaboard at this time of year is a ‘box of chocolates’.
The Dive Season starts in mid October. Two guys on our trip had done the same trip in early November (just 2 weeks before). They had calmer seas, sunshine, and a bit of rain.
We had rougher seas and never saw the sun.
That said, you make the best out of what you have and, as always, it is the people on the boat that make or break your trip.
Personally, next time, I would pay a bit more to go at a better time of year.
GETTING AWAY
I booked a minivan (online with Black Tiger using Bookaway) to Krabi for 400b.
Black Tiger limit passengers to 1 main suitcase up to 30kg and 24ins. If your luggage is over-sized, the driver will charge you an extra 200b-300b in cash on boarding.
GRANDPAcking COSTS
Read About – GRANDPAcking Costs if you don’t know how to interpret my figures.
Costs are broken down into Cost Of Existence (COE) and Cost Of Living (COL):
- COE: Is the basic costs of just being there;
- COL: Is the additional costs that make being there fun.
MY GRANDPAcking COSTS
These were my actual costs:
To view the above spreadsheet in more detail, {right click} on it and choose an option.
AVERAGE EXCHANGE RATE / (BLUE) TOP SECTION
I lost an average of 2.91% taking cash out of ATMs because I took out the maximum of 30,000b from a Krungsri ATM.
I lost an average of 3.00% on my Visa Credit Card.
I lost an average of 0.70% Wise Debit Card which I used to pay for my accommodation where possible.
COST OF EXISTENCE (COE) / (ORANGE) MIDDLE SECTION
ACCOMMODATION
The total cost of the Liveaboard was 38,320b / US$1,199.
I averaged 787b / US$25 per night for hotels excluding breakfast.
FOOD & BEVERAGES
I averaged 275b / US$9 per day whilst off Liveaboard. Please note that I eat to live, I do not live to eat … my costs are always significantly lower than other people.
SIM CARD / MOBILE DATA
I topped up my AIS SIM Card with a 15 day data-only plan for 161b / US$5 after tax.
VISA EXTENSION / NATIONAL PARK FEES
None.
TRAVEL INSURANCE
My Backpacker Level Travel Insurance policy has been pro rata’d.
NECESSARY TRANSPORT
None.
COST OF LIVING (COL) / (BROWN) BOTTOM SECTION
LIVING COSTS
I averaged 151b / US$5 per day on my evening beers (including what I took on the Liveaboard).
IN / OUT COSTS
I spent 135b / US$4 for the bus from Phuket Town to Khao Lak.
I spent 356b / US$11 for a minivan from Kha Lak to my Krabi hotel.
OTHER COSTS
I spent a further 735b / US$23 on personal items.
GRANDPAcking SUMMARY
My COE was 4,480b / US$140 per day (207% of my daily budget).
My COL was 274b / US$9 per day (13% of my daily budget).
My Grand Total cost was 4,753b / US$149 per day (220% of my daily budget).
As expected, I was ‘Significantly Over Budget‘.
YOUR GRANDPAcking COSTS
This would be your budget:
To view the above spreadsheet in more detail, {right click} on it and choose an option.
ORANGE COLUMNS / LEFT HAND SIDE
The left of the spreadsheet (orange columns) shows the costs for a GRANDPAcking Couple living to GRANDPAcking Standard using a Standard (Home) Bank Credit / Debit Card where possible and withdrawing cash from ATMs where cash is required.
COST OF EXISTENCE (COE)
ACCOMMODATION
It is assumed that you pay more to be here in Peak Season for the best experience. Expect to pay a total of 86,000b / US$2,740 for the Liveaboard.
Expect to pay 900b / US$29 per night excluding breakfast for the 2 nights before you sail and, again, for 2 nights after you return.
FOOD & BEVERAGES
Expect to pay 1,000b / US$33 per day eating cheaply in local restaurants when not on the Liveaboard.
SIM CARD / MOBILE DATA
Expect to pay 350b / US$11 for a AIS SIM Card with a 1 month plan.
VISA
None.
TRAVEL INSURANCE
A typical Backpacker Level Travel Insurance policy has been pro rata’d.
NECESSARY TRANSPORT & SIGHTSEEING
None. It is assumed that you will be in Khao Lak and that you will walk everywhere.
SUMMARY
Your COE is about 10,663b / US$340 per day. This is 520% of your daily budget.
But, this is expected.
RIGHT HAND SIDE / PURPLE COLUMNS
The right of the spreadsheet (purple columns) shows the costs for a GRANDPAcking Couple living to GRANDPAcking Standard using a Wise Debit Card where possible and withdrawing cash from ATMs where cash is required.
COST OF EXISTENCE (COE)
ACCOMMODATION
No change.
FOOD & BEVERAGES
No change.
SIM CARD / MOBILE DATA
No change.
VISA
No change.
TRAVEL INSURANCE
No change.
NECESSARY TRANSPORT & SIGHTSEEING
No change.
SUMMARY
You can save over US$50.
GRANDPAcking SUMMARY
You will need to save up for this trip 🙂
CONCLUSION
In my opinion, it is worth every penny … but, next time, I will come in Peak Season.
TTFN
