AUGUST 2026
OVERVIEW
We continue our Sri Lanka Tour.
We have already done:
It is time to move on to Ella.
ELLA
PLAN B
My original plan was to go from Mount Lavinia to Kandy. You can catch a minivan between the 2 for about US$10. It leaves at 8am each morning from the KFC. Book online in advance using 12GO.
My main reason for going to Kandy was to catch the famous, scenic, 8 hour train ride from Kandy to Ella. Alas, the 2025 monsoons damaged the first half of the track … and you can only join the train at Nanuoya near Nuwara Eliya. They expect to complete track repairs some time in 2027.
As a result, I decided to skip Kandy and go direct to Ella. This allowed me to do the Ella – Nanuoya – Ella return day trip (which is said to be the prettiest part). This also allowed me to do the Ella – Badulla – Ella return day trip as well if I wanted to (another stretch of track that is said to be pretty).
GETTING THERE
Getting to Ella from Mount Lavinia was not easy. There are few options. There was one bus that left Colombo Fort at 8pm and arrived in Ella at 3am.
In the end, I used 12GO to book a van-bus-van combo that included pick up from my Mount Lavinia hotel. The bus left Colombo at 9am and it was scheduled to arrive in Ella at 3pm. The price was US$33.
NOTE: My Mount Lavinia hotel pick up took me to the Bus Terminal at Makumbura MMC Railway Station. This takes about 1 hour (more in peak traffic). I could have done this myself costing about 5,000r on UBER. From there, I caught a public, 4 hour, Luxury NCG Express Bus to Ella. The ticket price was 2,700r. I could have booked this bus myself online. All up, I could have done this trip myself for under 8,000r / US$25. In the end, I thought that US$33 was a fair price to avoid any hassle.
ABOUT
Ella is surrounded by hills covered with cloud forests and tea plantations. The town has a cooler climate than the surrounding lowlands due to its elevation.
WEATHER
Whilst there, I saw no rain at all except for a shower when I arrived in Nanuoya by train.
ACTIVITIES
There are many treks, lookout points, temples, caves, and waterfalls to keep you busy … as well as the day train trips to Nanuoya and Badulla.
SCOOTER RENTAL
You will find scooter rentals everywhere.
I did not rent a scooter myself, but I have been told that they are about 2,000r to 2,500r per day (plus petrol).
EAT & DRINK
Restaurant prices are about 150%-200% those of Mount Lavinia. For example a small 330ml Lion beer can cost 950r. However, you see many ‘Cocktail Happy Hours’. Most meals start at 2,000r+.
At the bottom of Police Station Road you can find cheaper, ‘local cafe’ options where you can get a meal for 900r to 1,500r.
There is a Liquor Store opposite Rocky Ella Cafe where you can buy your own alcohol at ‘government rates’ (e.g. a 625ml of Lion is 500r + 100r bottle deposit). You can drink cheaply next door at the Ella Tavern (e.g. a 625ml bottle of Lion is 600r).
ACCOMMODATION
GRANDPAckers will find few hotels within our price range. Take what you can get.
WHERE TO STAY
Ella is ‘hilly’, you don’t need to stray far from the main road before you (may) end up walking up and down steep inclines.
The areas close to the main roads are fairly flat.
I suggest that you stay close to these main roads.
Look in the green shaded area if you want to avoid hills and get easy access.
If you rent a scooter, you can stay anywhere.
MY ACCOMMODATION
I used Agoda to book a Double Room with Private Bathroom and Balcony including Continental Breakfast at the Ella Nexora Inn. I paid 6,165r / US$19 per night. I chose this hotel for its location … easy access to the train station as well as the centre of town.
The hotel had ‘mixed’ reviews, so I made sure that I pre-paid on my credit card (and not ‘pay at the hotel’). I am glad that I did.
On arrival, they could not find my booking. The manager was not there, so we talked on the phone. After 20 minutes, I was put into a Double Room that looked nothing like the pictures and, in fact, was a lesser quality room … it had a private bathroom but no balcony … I was shown the public area next to my room and told ‘balcony’.
I messaged the manager and asked what time he served breakfast. The reply was ‘no breakfast in this price’. After several message exchanges, he finally agreed to include breakfast (but not change my room). A ‘happy compromise. The breakfast was very good: a pot of tea / coffee, 2 eggs as you like them, a sweet roll, 4 slices of toast, butter, and jam. I believe that I only got this price and result because I had already paid.
ELLA – NANUOYA – ELLA
The previous day, I went to the Train Station to reserve a ticket. All reserved tickets had gone. I was told to turn up on the day and buy my ‘no seat reserved’ ticket then. I was there at 9:30am.
The train from Ella to Nanuoya starts in Badulla. By the time it gets to Ella, there are (usually) no seats left.
I paid 300r for a 2nd class ticket (fan). You can buy a 3rd class ticket for 160r … but they don’t offer it to tourists … and I don’t suggest it 🙂 There were only 2 ‘non-reserved seat’ 2nd class carriages. I was told to wait ‘in the middle’ of the platform. The ‘middle’ (immediately in front of the ticket office) was crowded. Instead, I walked 30m to the front of the platform and waited there. The train arrived on time. I got on to the very first 2nd class carriage and found a seat. 3 minutes later, the people from the ‘middle’ finally arrived in my carriage and found standing room only.
NOTE: If you have ‘reserved’ a seat, you will need to provide proof of your identity … bring your passport.
The journey to Nanuoya took 3 hours, not 2.5. We arrived just before 1pm. The train stops in Nanuoya … it goes no further (until 2027, when they are scheduled to repair the track north to Kandy). It was a ‘pleasant’ trip but I wouldn’t write home about it. On arrival in Nanuoya, I immediately bought my 300r 2nd class return ticket to Ella. The return train leaves at 2:30pm.
People coming south Kandy catch a taxi / minivan / bus to Nanuoya. There are lots of backpackers with 2nd class ‘non-reserved seat’ tickets! … and lots of backpacks. When they open the train doors at 2:00pm it is a mad rush for seats and the train seats fill up fast.
Again, I suggest that you go to the furthest queue from the ticket office. If you want a seat, start queuing at 1:30pm. I managed to get on in the first ‘wave’ and got a seat. Watch out for the ‘locals’ who don’t bother to queue … they just try and push past you to the front as soon as the doors open.
Many people boarding at 2:00pm found ‘standing room’ only … and had to stand for the 2.5 hour trip to Ella.
Expect heaps of people to ask to lean out of your window to take photos. Expect to see heaps of people queuing at the open doors to take photos of themselves hanging off the side of the train to take their ‘standard’ photo.
Ah for the enthusiasm of youth 🙂
GETTING AWAY
You can catch a long-distance bus to several destinations. They pick up at Ella Bus Station.
Alternatively, you can book an 8-seater minivan.
Up Country are located on Ella Station Road. If you book using an agent on the main road, add 1,000r to these prices.
CONCLUSION
Ella is a party town. During the day, youngster zip around sight-seeing on their rental scooters. Come dusk, the main street comes alive.
Our next stop is Arugam Bay on the south eastern coast … We will load up the post soon.
TTFN
