AUGUST / SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2026
OVERVIEW
We are still trying to find our ‘optimal loop’ through Southern Asia.
Mid August through to the end of October is a difficult time for sun lovers to travel in this part of the world … it is Rainy Season almost everywhere … except for Indonesia.
Last year (2025), we started August in Bali, Indonesia with the intention of quickly moving on to the Gili Islands for a couple of months. For various reasons, this idea was abandoned.
To see if we could replace the Bali / Gili Islands in the months of August through October, we moved on to Laos for the first time. After a month in Laos, we moved on to tour Phuket Island, Thailand.
Alas, at this time of year, Laos and Phuket were disappointing.
It is time for something completely new and different: Sri Lanka.
WEATHER SUMMARY
Throughout the country there is a rainy season from October to December, while in the other months, the rains vary greatly depending on the area.
There are 2 different monsoon regions in Sri Lanka.
- Southwest Monsoon (Yala): May to September, brings heavy rain to the south and west coasts and central highlands, while the east coast remains dry and sunny.
- Northeast Monsoon (Maha): December to February, affects the east and north, bringing rainfall, while the south and west stay relatively dry.
- Inter-monsoon periods: April and October are characterized by short, intense afternoon showers across the island.
OUR ROUTE
We are here from the middle of August through to the middle of October. The plan is to hit the East and North with a couple of ‘unmissable’ mid-island stop-offs along the way.
As this is our first time in Sri Lanka, the plan is to see as many places as possible. Four days in each location should give us enough time to have a look around and get a ‘feel’ for what it would be like to stay longer.
Plans do not always work out … things change … read on.
ABOUT SRI LANKA
‘Where are you from?‘ … get used to that phrase … you are going to be asked it everywhere you go 🙂
LOCATION
Sri Lanka (formerly known as Ceylon) is an island located in the Indian Ocean, southwest of the Bay of Bengal.
Colombo is the capital … which is also its largest city and the political, financial, and cultural centre of the country.
POPULATION
Sri Lanka’s population is 22 million. About 74% of the population are Sinhalese, who speak the Sinhala language, and about 15% are Tamils who speak the Tamil language. Other long-established ethnic groups include the Moors, Indian Tamils, Burghers, Malays, Chinese, and Vedda.
HISTORY
The Portuguese Empire established a colony in the sixteenth century. Following the Sinhalese–Portuguese War, the Dutch colonial empire controlled the coastal areas. By the early 19th century, the British Empire established a colony on the island, which lasted until 1948. In 1948, Sri Lanka gained independence.
GEOGRAPHY
The island consists mostly of flat to rolling coastal plains, with mountains rising only in the south-central part. The highest point is Pidurutalagala, reaching 2,524 metres (8,281 ft) above sea level.
WEALTH
Sri Lanka has the 2nd highest GDP in South Asia … which reflects in higher costs (compared to other countries in the region).
TOURISM
Sri Lanka’s tourism industry is recovering after a few years of political troubles. The economy now needs more tourists to come.
Sri Lanka is known for its National Parks and beaches.
TIPS, TRICKS, and TRAPS
GETTING AROUND
When booking a bus online I found that the scheduled times were inconvenient (sometimes arriving in my destination at, say, 3am). The ‘tourist’ quality busses have set routes and do not always go to your destination.
Sites like 12GO tend to offer over-priced taxis. Rome2rio is unusually incomplete.
You will find that popular tourist spots offer Shared Taxi (minivan) services to other popular tourist spots (such as Ella to Arugam Bay). These Shared Taxi prices are very reasonable.
Don’t be surprised to find that you rely on UBER and PICKME a lot of the time. They cost more than public transport but the extra tends to be worth it.
TUK TUK RULE OF THUMB
As a rule-of-thumb, you should pay:
- 100r per part km for short distances / urban;
- 90r per part km for long distances / rural / open road.
This price is for the whole tuk tuk … not per person.
SOCIAL LIFE
Don’t come to Sri Lanka expecting to find a ‘western-style social life’. It does not exist here. As with India (Goa) … you will have to go to specific tourist centers such as Ella and Arugam Bay.
Sri Lankan’s don’t ‘do’ pubs. Even if you find a ‘pub’, it will not have the atmosphere that you are used to.
Expect your Social Life to revolve around your hotel and what the two of you can find to talk about over dinner (in a restaurant that, more often than not, does not sell alcohol … and, if it does, expect to pay ‘near western prices’).
PRICING
As with India, Sri Lanka are trying to eliminate the ‘bartering system’. All prices should be stamped on the product. It is illegal for a store to charge more. If you want to know the price, just look at the label on the product.
SCOOTER RENTAL
Scooters typically rent for 3,000r per day (excluding petrol). In areas with many options, this can drop to 2,500r per day (excluding petrol). If you rent for 4 weeks / 1 month expect to pay about 1,500r per day.
Expect to get 100kms out of 1,000r of petrol.
BICYCLE RENTAL
Bicycles rent for 1,000r. In remote locations, you may find that your hotel provides free use of (shared) bicycles.
TUK TUK RENTAL
A Tuk Tuk is big enough to take 3 average-sized backpacks on the back shelf, 2 people in the back seat, and a driver in the front. You may find a Tuk Tuk that also takes luggage on its roof.
You can rent your own Tuk Tuk for 6,000r per day. If you rent for 4 weeks expect to pay 4,000r per day (or less if you have good negotiating skills).
A Tuk Tuk can go 15kms urban and 20kms rural on 1 litre. One litre of fuel costs 400r. People touring Sri Lanka in their own rental Tuk Tuk should expect to pay, say, 20r per km.
Example: You rent a Tuk Tuk for 4 weeks at 4,000r per day = 112,000r. You travel 2,000kms. Your total fuel cost is 40,000r. Your total cost is 154,000r. This averages about 5,500r per day (less than US$17 / day).
If you don’t have Driver / Travel insurance to cover this rental, add 20,000r for insurance. Add another 32,500r security deposit.
2 or 3 people sharing a rental Tuk Tuk can be a viable (and fun) option. It can work out cheaper than paying for inter-city taxis and renting scooters. You will also be able to choose better priced hotels and find better priced restaurants.
You will need a Sri Lanka or International Driving License.
ANTS
I have never been anywhere in the world that has so many ants. Usually very small … but lots of them. They get everywhere. Expect them in your hotel room. You can do very little about it. These are 2 coffee cups left for 10 minutes. 
This means that you have to be careful. Wash utensils, cups, and plates immediately. Do not leave food laying around … they will also (somehow) manage to break into sealed packets. Always screw the top back on bottles. Etc. If you don’t, you will attract more ants and they will be all over the items. I suggest that you put things like this into a (plastic) bag and hang that bag somewhere that is impossible for ants to get to.
ALCOHOL
Sri Lanka is similar to India (excepting Goa) … you will not find alcohol openly on sale on a shop shelf.
Alcohol is sold at government run outlets. You will either be served over a service counter or through a hole in an iron grilled service counter. Some close on Friday, some on Saturday, and some close on Sunday.
Again, the price is on the product. Don’t let them over charge you (which they try to do to tourists in tourist hotspots). You may find that you need to pay extra (about 100r) for the deposit on a beer bottle. If so, they should give you a chit so that you can get that deposit back when you return the bottle(s).
SMOKING
Vapes and eCigarettes are illegal in Sri Lanka.
Normal cigarettes are available but they are expensive compared to other countries in the region. You can buy a single cigarette for 160r. A pack of 20 will cost about 3,400r. Flavours are also banned (e.g. no menthol and no ‘click’). You can only buy ‘tobacco flavour’.
To put that 3,400r into context, with that money you can:
- Pay for your evening meal with a drink;
- Rent a scooter for a day (including petrol);
- Buy 7 x 500ml cans of Lion beer.
If you are a smoker, I suggest that you arrive with your maximum allowance of duty free.
HOTEL WIFI
In Sri Lanka, in the GRANDPAcker price range (less than US$35 / night), WiFi is unreliable.
In some hotels, the WiFi won’t get as far as your room … you will have to go to ‘common areas’.
In other hotels, the WiFi will be ‘slow’ and drop in and out.
In other hotels, the hotel will have a daily / weekly / monthly GB limit … when that is ‘hit’ you will get a connection but ‘no internet’ until the next cycle (or they pay their bill).
MY ADVICE: Don’t be too bothered about the WiFi score of a hotel. If you like the hotel, book it. For US$5 you can get 30GB of data for 1 month on your own mobile plan … just use your own data … or, from your laptop, just ‘hot spot’ to your own smartphone. I had to do this regularly.
EXCHANGE RATE
The currency in Sri Lanka is the Rupee (the ‘LKR’ or ‘r’). At the time of writing, the exchange rates for the major currencies were:
| US$1 | EU€1 | GB£1 | |
| Published Wholesale Rate | 333 | 385 | 450 |
| Actual Exchange Rate (Wise Debit Card) | 331 | 382 | 447 |
| Actual Exchange Rate (Typical Credit Card) | 329 | 380 | 444 |
| Actual Exchange Rate (Good ATM) | 325 | 375 | 439 |
Over time, these exchange rates will change. Please check the current rates.
For simplicity, think of a 5,000r note as being US$15 / EU€13 / GB£11.
ATMs
ATM fees are ‘low’ compared with other countries … which also encourages tourism.
The preferred banks are:
- Bank Of Ceylon (BOC): usually no usage fee and a max of 100,000r per withdrawal and 200,000r per day.
- People’s Bank: usually no usage fee and a max of 100,000r per withdrawal and 200,000r per day.
- National Savings Bank (NSB): usually no usage fee and a max of 40,000r per withdrawal.
In summary, take out money from one of these fee-free ATMs.
WISE DEBIT CARD
I keep my costs down by using a WISE Debit Card.
WISE allow me to withdraw up to NZ$400 / US$235 / GBP170 per calendar month from ATMs without adding any of their own fees. Thereafter, I use whichever Debit Card provides the lowest ATM withdrawal rate (my WISE card charges 2.69%).
GETTING THERE
I flew from Da Nang, Vietnam via Saigon to Colombo on Vietjet. I paid US$220 including 30kg of checked in luggage.
eVISA
Up until recently, Sri Lanka charged for a tourist visa. However, to encourage the return of tourism, it now offers visa-free entry for visitors from several countries. This allows a stay of up to 30 days. You can apply online at their official website.
eVISA EXTENSION
Your eVisa can be extended online for a further 30 days. It costs US$100 plus about US$4 in ‘processing fees’.
After completing the form, you will be told that processing takes 3-5 business days before you will receive an email instructing payment. If you do not get the email, you are advised to physically go to the Immigration Office in Colombo.
After 8 days I had not received that email. I was on the East Coast. I went back to their website and found their email address under the ‘Contact Us’ section. I sent them an email with my details and application reference number. Two days later, I received an ‘application successful’ email and their payment instructions.
SRI LANKA DIGITAL ARRIVAL CARD (LKDAC)
Online sites (including the official government sites) state that you need to submit an LKDAC within 3 days of your arrival.
I went to the appropriate website but I was unable to do so. My attempts repeatedly failed … which was a bit worrying. I took screen shots of those failures just in case I needed them as proof on my arrival in Sri Lanka. I did not need them.
At the time of writing, the LKDAC was not required … and not asked for on arrival in Sri Lanka.
COLOMBO AIRPORT
I found the airport surprisingly small … and easy to get around.
Baggage collection was reasonably fast. The queue at immigration was small. Customs was almost non-existent other than for random checks.
I was out in the arrival hall within 1 hour of landing.
MOBITEL SIMCARD
You will find SIMcard kiosks just before Baggage Claim. It is normal to pay higher prices in such places … but I landed after 11pm and I didn’t want any problems.
For USD10 I purchased a new Mobitel 5G SIM card with a 30 day package that included 30gb of data, unlimited call time, and 1000 SMSs.
The sign-up process took less than 10 minutes and I paid using my foreign credit card.
NOTE: After Immigration, in the arrival hall, there were more kiosks … each had 15-20 people waiting in the queue. For USD10, I avoided all of that hassle.
TOP UPS
I had already pre-downloaded the Mobitel App. The App has an ‘English’ option and provides the usual services and information.
I could top-up using a foreign credit card. For 1,598r / US$5, I purchased another 1 month 30gb plan with 1,000 SMSs and unlimited calls.
NOTE: Be careful when you top up. The top up amount automatically triggers the associated plan. That plan will start immediately … it does not wait and queue behind any plan that may still be active. I ended up with 2 of exactly the same plans running in parallel ending 1 week apart.
TRANSPORT
ROADS
Sri Lanka has an extensive road network for inland transportation. With more than 100,000 km (62,000 mi) of paved roads.
RAILWAY
The railway network, operated by the state-run National Railway operator Sri Lanka Railways, spans 1,447 kilometres (900 mi). Trains get full so book in advance.
You will need to ‘register’ on their website. You may need a Sri Lankan mobile number to register … if so, you will not be able to register until you land in the country.
Bookings do not ‘open up’ online until 30 days before your travel date.
It can be difficult negotiating the train stations and trains with big luggage and big luggage storage can be problematic.
LONG-DISTANCE BUS / SHUTTLE BUS
Personally, I prefer Luxury long-distance busses. There is an extensive network of long-distance busses. However, between some of the more remote locations you may find yourself packed in with locals with the same ‘big luggage storage’ problems.
You can book long distance luxury busses at the official SLTB website.
TAXI / UBER / PICKME
I have UBER. I prefer to use UBER rather than ‘negotiating’ prices with local taxi drivers.
HOTELS
To get a GRANDPAcking Standard hotel room, expect to pay US$30-35 per night (usually, this will NOT include breakfast).
Since Agoda bought out Booking.com, Agoda tends to offer better prices. This is true in Sri Lanka.
EAT & DRINK
This is a general guideline. Where prices differ significantly, I will tell you so.
EAT
You will find it hard to get any ‘local meal for under 1,000r. Here is typical menu from a budget restaurant.
 |  |
Something like a Vegetarian Basmati Rice is 1,099r.
In the small local cafes you can get the same for about 700r-900r.
In a restaurant, expect your evening meal to average about 1,500r-2,000r. A 12″ pizza will cost about 4,000r.
DRINK
Expect to pay 500r for a large 625ml local beer (e.g. Lion) and 650r for a large ‘strong’ local beer bought in a store.
As a rule-of-thumb, double this price if you are drinking in a restaurant or bar. Expect to pay more if you are in a fancier establishment or on a beach.
CONCLUSION
In the following posts, I will provide more detail about what I find in each destination.
Stay posted to stay informed.
TTFN
